Tasty Recipes from Recipe Wizards



Mar 17 2010

Take one cube of caviar

Caviar is rather like Rice Krispies. You can get a lot of snap, crackle and pop as you bite down on those tiny fish eggs; the texture is all part of the fun.

So you might wonder why Petrossian, the posh Manhattan company selling all things caviar, is taking a chance with a new product called Caviarcubes. Pressed caviars are shaped into small squares and packed in olive oil. You get about 18 cubes (a little less than 3/4 ounce) to a jar, which costs $45 at petrossian.com.

The caviar looks like shiny, all-black dice. The texture is utterly smooth; think of an old-fashioned licorice whip. There's a distinct caviar flavor to the cubes, which is nice, but there's also a certain briny bitterness. It's an acquired taste, even for this devoted caviar lover.

Pressed caviar is salted and pressed roe and very different from fresh caviar, according to "The New Food Lover's Companion." It's often made from a combination of types, and sometimes with damaged eggs that couldn't be presented whole.

Petrossian suggests using these pressed caviar cubes as a topping for cocktail canapes, oysters or "baked spuds."

Serve with cocktails or a good beer.

Mar 17 2010

Sugar shockers: Everyday foods packed with hidden sugars push most of us way over new recommended limits

Sugar has been blamed for a laundry list of health problems, including obesity and diabetes. But how do you know when you've had too much?

For the first time, Americans now have a benchmark: No more than 25 grams of added sugar a day for women and 37.5 grams for men, according to new guidelines established by the American Heart Association.

It's easy to soar past those limits. Downing just one 12-ounce can of Coca-Cola will give you 39 grams of sugar, exceeding your daily ration. But a lesser-known problem with sugar is that it's hidden in everything from soup to nuts. It's lurking in your lunch meat. It enhances bread. And if a low-fat product or frozen dinner tastes good, you may have added sugar to thank.

As a result, we're regularly ingesting an average of 88.8 grams of added sugar a day, according to the National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey - more than three times what the AHA recommends.

"When you really start paying attention to ingredients, you realize that sugar is everywhere," said New Jersey's Jen Maidenberg, 35, who has monitored her sugar intake for more than a decade to help treat allergies, asthma and irritable bowel syndrome. Among her pet peeves: "It kills me that Activia yogurt professes to boost your gut flora with probiotics, but then fills its yogurt with high amounts of sugar, defeating the purpose," she said.

Flooding your body with sugar often results in a blood sugar high - followed by a crash. Excess sugar intake has also been linked to inflammation, which can trigger a cascade of poor health conditions, including heart disease, high blood pressure and stroke.

But there's no recommended daily allowance for sugar because the body doesn't need it. The U.S. Dietary Guidelines vaguely advise us to "choose added sugars in moderation."

The AHA, however, felt consumers needed a specific target, said Rachel Johnson, lead author of the guidelines and professor of nutrition at the University of Vermont. The limits, released in September 2009, were developed after considering the number of discretionary calories a typical American has left after fulfilling all nutritional requirements. So, a more active person would have more discretionary calories, said Johnson.

Of course, sugar occurs naturally in foods - lactose in milk and fructose in fruit, for instance. These natural sugars are less alarming because they're accompanied by nutrients. But nutrition labels don't distinguish between natural and added sugars, which are those used during processing. The guidelines only address added sugars.

That means it's important to look for sugar - and its euphemisms - in the ingredient list, said Karin Hosenfeld, a registered dietician in Texas. "If a food contains sugar or a simple carbohydrate derivative such as cane juice or high fructose corn syrup as one of the top three ingredients, and has no other redeeming nutritional value, then it's not a healthy choice," she said.

Watch for words ending in "-ose," such as lactose or maltose; those are simply chemical names for sugar. Brown rice syrup, molasses, raw sugar and evaporated cane juice may sound healthy, but "a calorie is a calorie," said Johnson. "Molasses or raw sugar still has 4 calories per gram, like any other sugar," said Johnson.

In addition to making foods sweeter, sugar is used to maintain color, texture and flavor, said Sean O'Keefe, a professor in the department of food science and technology at Virginia Tech.

Here are some of the unexpected places it pops up, with some specific product examples:

Note: Sugar measurements given for typical serving sizes

Breads and crackers: Sugar can help smooth and balance the flavor, said O'Keefe, who is also a spokesman for the Institute of Food Technologists. "Adding sugar to bread is one way of ensuring it rises properly before baking."

Pepperidge Farm Plain Bagels: 10 grams per bagel

Smart Start's "Original Antioxidants" cereal: 14 grams per cup. (Of note: Sugar is mentioned 14 times in various forms in the ingredient list.)

Cereal bars and granola: Sugar is added to help with taste, texture and to lower the water content, increasing the bars' shelf life, O'Keefe said.

Quaker Natural Granola Oats Honey and Raisins: 30 grams per 1 cup

Nutri-Grain Strawberry Cereal Bars: 13 grams per bar

Tomato-based products: Sugar is used to give tomatoes the optimal sugar-acid balance and improve flavor if they're picked before they ripen. Tomatoes naturally have about 5 grams of sugar. Anything over that is likely added.

Ketchup: 4 grams per tablespoon

Peanut butter: Dextrose is added for taste and to stabilize emulsion, O'Keefe said.

Skippy Natural Super Chunk: 3 grams per 2 tablespoons

Dairy: Sugar is added for taste. Plain yogurt has about 12 grams of natural sugar; flavored can have up to 35 grams.

Horizon Organic fat-free vanilla: 24 grams per 6-ounce container

Shelf-stable meals, canned soups and frozen dinners: Virtually any packaged meal will have added sugar to help improve taste. Look for meals with less than 5 grams of added sugar.

Healthy Choice Fresh Mixers Sesame Teriyaki Chicken, 15 grams per serving

Weight Watchers Smart Ones Lasagna Florentine: 12 grams per serving

Learn about health and nutrition at healthkey.com

Mar 17 2010

Food label jungle is hard to navigate

It's a jungle out there in the grocery aisles, a thicket of products claiming healthy this and nutritious that. Never before have food packages displayed so many health claims in the U.S., according to a recent commentary in the Journal of the American Medical Association.

These front-of-package labels may "so thoroughly mislead the public that another option deserves consideration - eliminate all nutrition and health claims from the front of processed food packages," Marion Nestle and David Ludwig, two nutrition experts, wrote in the journal.

That may be a long shot, but clearly regulators - namely the U.S. Food and Drug Administration - are interested in making some changes.

On March 3, the agency announced it had sent 17 warning letters to food manufacturers asking them to correct misleading labels. The same day, FDA Commissioner Margaret Hamburg issued an open letter to the industry underscoring the importance of reliable food labeling.

"The Obama administration has given the signal that the FDA will be more aggressive in the area of food labeling," said Bruce Silverglade, legal affairs director at the Center for Science in the Public Interest, which had been discussing the issue with the agency for months and this week released a report called "Food Labeling Chaos: The Case for Reform."

Indeed, last fall Hamburg announced her agency would be taking a closer look, noting that "some nutritionists have questioned whether (label) information is more marketing-oriented than health-oriented."

Though many of the center's labeling concerns remained unaddressed, Silverglade praised the FDA's warning letters, saying he hopes the deceptive food labeling "party is over and we are in a new era."

An FDA study released this week found that, for the first time, more than half of consumers surveyed say they often read labels. But they are also skeptical of industry claims such as "low fat," "high fiber" and "cholesterol free."

Here is a guide to help you navigate the still-confusing food labeling landscape.

IMMUNITY CLAIMS

The problem: Products are marketed as supportive of the immune system because of the vitamins they contain. It's true that severe vitamin deficiencies can weaken immunity, but such deficiencies are not common in the developed world. Otherwise there's little scientific evidence that vitamins, minerals and specific foods benefit the immune system.

Example: Northfield-based Kraft Foods' Crystal Light Immunity powdered beverage mixes. The front label for Crystal Light Immunity's Natural Cherry Pomegranate drink says "Antioxidants A, C & E help support a healthy immune system."

Critical view: "These vitamins are necessary to stay alive, but adding them to Crystal Light won't lessen your chances of contracting a disease," said the center's Silverglade.

Company response: Responding in the center's recent report, Kraft said: "We do not expect, or claim, that consumption of Crystal Light Immunity ... will - in and of itself - significantly impact immune function." Kraft spokeswoman Bridget MacConnell told the Tribune that the firm has "a team of nutritionists and legal experts who carefully review the science and the law before we put any claims on our products."

Possible fix: The center proposes that any immunity claim by a food-maker get approval from the FDA first.

FIBER CLAIMS

The problem: Food manufacturers are adding fiber to yogurt, ice cream, drinks and other foods that were previously fiber free or contained only small amounts. But there's no evidence that the "isolated fibers" being added have the same beneficial effects of naturally occurring dietary fiber. It's generally agreed that oat bran and barley, for instance, lower cholesterol and thus have a cardiovascular benefit. That's not the case with isolated fiber.

Example: Minnesota-based General Mills' Fiber One line of products, which includes yogurt, toaster muffin mixes and breakfast bars. The label on a box of bars boasts that they contain 35 percent of the needed daily amount of fiber. That's because the bars contain inulin, a powdered, isolated fiber derived from chicory root.

Critical view: "The label just says fiber," Silverglade said. "But isolated fibers don't have the same effect."

Company response: "We select and use natural fibers based on how they perform in the product - especially in terms of taste," General Mills said in a statement. "Inulin is a natural fiber present in many grains, vegetables and fruits, such as wheat, onions, leeks, bananas and garlic. It is also present in chicory roots. Scientific evidence supports a wide variety of fibers, including inulin, as promoting regularity."

Silver lining: Regardless of fiber claims, inulin is "absolutely the best prebiotic," said Joanne Slavin, a fiber expert and food science professor at the University of Minnesota. Prebiotics are good for the digestive tract and help promote healthy bowel movements.

Possible fix: The center has proposed that the FDA clarify the regulatory definition of fiber to include only fibers from whole grains, beans and other foods. If chicory root extract is on an ingredient list, the product's fiber probably comes from inulin.

SERVING SIZES

The problem: Serving sizes, which are determined by the Food and Drug Administration, often are smaller than what the average person eats. For chips it can be six pieces; soup is a cup; cereal is a half-cup. Consequently, what may seem like a single-serving package can contain two or more servings. The front-of-the-package health claims, however, only have to apply to a single serving.

Example: Healthy Choice Italian Style Wedding soup may look like it should serve one, but a closer examination reveals that the package actually contains about two servings. It's called "Healthy Choice," but if someone ate the whole container (1.75 cups), he or she would consume 777 mg of sodium, more than a third of the daily recommended sodium limit for an adult.

Critical view: It's the kind of thing one would normally pop into the microwave for lunch," said Silverglade, but for it to be considered healthy, "you'd have to envision someone putting this in the microwave and sharing it with a friend."

Company response: "We don't have statistics on what percentage of consumers eat the entire contents in one sitting or two, but anecdotally, we know that both situations occur. Our front-of-package labeling is consistent with the nutrition fact panel, which calls out the fact that there are two servings in the package," said a ConAgra Foods representative.

Possible fix: The center proposes that the FDA reassess serving sizes to better reflect how much the average person eats, as well as requiring that the nutritional claims on the front of the package reflect that new amount.

TRANS FATS

The problem: A product that contains less than 0.5 grams of trans fats per serving can be labeled as having 0 grams. So it's possible to exceed the American Heart Association's recommended limit of 2 grams a day by eating several servings of those foods. Zero trans-fat foods also can contain very high levels of unhealthy saturated fat.

Example: The packaging of Edy's Dibs bite-size frozen snacks proclaims "0 trans fats," which is true. But one serving also provides 75 percent of an adult's daily limit of saturated fat.

Critical view: Silverglade said an FDA rule states that "if a product has more than 20 percent of the daily value (per serving) of sodium, saturated fat or cholesterol, you essentially can't make certain health claims on the label - i.e. vitamin and mineral claims," because it would make an unhealthy product appear healthy. But with a product containing high levels of unhealthy saturated fat, "you can still make trans fat claims," he said.

Company response: "We stand behind (the product's) nutritional quality. ... Dreyer's intends to fully cooperate with the FDA to bring this matter to a conclusion."

Tip: If you see partially hydrogenated oils on the ingredient list, assume that two servings could deliver almost half your daily limit of trans fats. Also check the saturated fat levels.

Possible fix: The center recommends prohibiting the use of "0g trans fats" when the products are not also low in saturated fat and cholesterol. FDA's recent letter to Nestle instructed the company to place the words "See nutrition information for fat and saturated fat content" next to that claim.

Other pitfalls

Natural: This is an unregulated term, except in meat (where it means minimally processed with no artificial colors or flavors). The FDA has no official definition but has suggested "natural" foods should contain no artificial substances. "Natural" was the most common claim on new products last year, according to the consumer research firm Mintel.

100 percent juice: Juices such as cranberry or pomegranate making this claim may also contain a large amount of other, cheaper juices like white grape. Check the ingredient label.

Hormone-free chicken: The U.S. Department of Agriculture doesn't allow poultry to be injected with hormones, so the claim is virtually meaningless. Hormone-free chickens may be treated with non-therapeutic antibiotics, which also act as growth boosters.

Whole grain: The FDA says products labeled "100 percent whole grain" should contain no other types of grain, but it does not specify the amount needed for a product to be labeled "whole grain." The Whole Grains Council offers "100 percent Whole Grain" and "Whole Grain" certified stamps; it says the latter means at least 50 percent whole grain.

Real fruit: The FDA does not regulate the amount of real fruit a product must contain in order to use this claim. See where fruit ranks on the ingredient list for guidance.

In a move the food industry hasn't seen in decades, the Food and Drug Administration recently fired off 17 warning letters to manufacturers of these products, telling them to fix misleading food labels:

Products: Mrs. Smith's Classic Coconut Custard Pie, Dreyer's Dibs Bite Sized Ice Cream Snacks, Gorton's Beer Batter Crispy Battered Fish Fillets

Violation: Because of the amount of total fat, saturated fat and/or cholesterol the foods contain, a phrase such as "See nutrition information for fat, saturated fat and cholesterol content" must be displayed next to the label's claim of 0 grams trans fat.

Products: Gerber Graduates Fruit Puffs, Organic Fruit and Veggie Juice Beverage, Baby Mum-Mum Original Selected Superior Rice Rusks, Juicy Juice Brain Development Fruit Juice, Parents Choice Little Puffs Plus Calcium Blueberry Naturally Flavored, Beech-Nut Whole Grain Oatmeal & Mixed Fruit Cereal

Violation: Labels make nutrient claims such as "a good source of calcium" or "fortified and enhanced functional benefits" and "50 percent less sugar" that are not permissible for products aimed at kids younger than 2. Only percentages of vitamins and minerals for which there are "recommended daily intakes" may be noted.

Products: Juicy Juice All Natural 100 percent Juice Orange Tangerine and Juicy Juice All Natural 100 percent Juice Grape

Violations: The names mislead the consumer into thinking that the juices contain 100 percent orange-tangerine juice or grape juice when they do not. The labels also present nutrient content claims not allowed for food aimed at kids younger than 2.

Products: Diamond Walnuts, Pom Wonderful 100 percent Pomegranate Juice, Salada Naturally Decaffeinated Green Tea, Dr. Lee's TeaForHealth

Violation: Health claims on the products' Web sites promote them as items intended for "the cure, mitigation, treatment or prevention of disease," which can be applied only to FDA-approved drugs.

Product: Pompeian Imported Extra Light Olive Oil

Violation: Uses the term "light" despite its fat content.

Products: Ken's Healthy Options Parmesan & Peppercorn, Sweet Vidalia Onion Vinaigrette and Raspberry Walnut dressings

Violation: Labels make "healthy" claim although the dressings' fat and nutrient levels do not meet the requirements.

Product: Sunsweet Antioxidant Blend Dried Fruit Mix

Violation: Label's "high-antioxidant" and "full of nutritious antioxidants" wording amounts to unauthorized claims of nutrient content because they don't include information about nutrients.

Mar 17 2010

Shelf life

CHAMPIONS 2.0

Don't call this a replacement for original Wheaties, it just wouldn't cut it, but it is a pretty charming sister cereal. Developed with input from a physician and big-time athletes like Peyton Manning and Albert Pujols, it aims to keep performance and health in mind, but this time with a variety of flakes and puffs and a sweet honey-cinnamon flavor. Available in supermarkets nationwide for about $5.

TCHO-COLATE HABIT

Tcho-A-Day 30 suggests self-medication by chocolate: 14 individually wrapped dark chocolate squares (.28 ounces each) prescribed for "inspiration, happy heart, coping, focus, optimism and even euphoria." Buy the one-month supply bottle for $20 or a "Discover the Flavors" pack of four 60-gram bars for $21, on tcho.com.

PICK THIS PEPPER

Alessi's Piccantino pepper cruncher combines transparent silicone red rubber and polished steel for this cute and kitschy, but useful, gizmo that helps you grind, spread and store dried red chilies without having to handle them. Available at the end of March for $26 at unicahome.com.

Mar 17 2010

Tastings: Navigating sea of chicken broth

Prepared chicken broth is that go-to kitchen staple when you don't have the time (or the chicken) needed to simmer up your own. It gives soups, stews and sauces a flavor boost, and can sub for milk when making mashed potatoes.

"Broth occupies an intermediate position between stock and soup," according to the "Oxford Companion to Food," which notes that broth can be eaten as is, whereas a stock would normally be consumed only as an ingredient in something more complex.

But what's in the array of cartons on supermarket shelves? And do they all taste alike? Well, the broths and stocks from our survey range in color from lemon-yellow to auburn. The taste? It varied, influenced by the ingredients in addition to the obvious broths used in their creation. Which is why we zeroed in on a few interesting ingredients we found on the labels, that is the "Who knew," included below. Our rating is based on a scale of 1 to 9, with 5 being average.

Swanson 100 Percent Natural Chicken Broth (5.6 points; $3.45 for 32 ounces; 11 cents per ounce): "Aroma of chicken and butter, salt and spice aftertaste." "Not much chicken flavor, bland but would be a decent base." "Light poached chicken flavor; would buy." "Fragrant, almost floral, herbal; pleasant light meaty flavor." Who knew: Sugar, dehydrated onions, yeast extract, chicken fat, carrots, celery, onions

Progresso 100 Percent Natural Chicken Broth (5.6 points; $3.29 for 32 ounces; 10 cents per ounce): "Tastes of carrots and celery more than chicken, good flavor though." "Herbs and salt and no sense of chicken." "Good flavor. Nice chicken, not too salty." "Sharp almost citrus hints; I like it." Who knew: Sugar, natural flavor, carrot, onion, celery, green bell pepper

Kitchen Basics Chicken Stock (4.6 points; $3.69 for 32 ounces; 12 cents per ounce): "Herbal, hint of chicken liver, sweet herbal taste." "Peppery, poached chicken. Carrots, touch of sweetness." "Harsh, acid." "Smoky overtones, chicken light." Who knew: Honey, vegetable stocks (carrot, onion, mushroom, celery), bay (sic), thyme, pepper

O Organics Chicken Broth (4.2 points; $3.29 for 32 ounces; 10 cents per ounce): "Fair meaty aroma, onion flavors, no chicken." "Roast chicken, strong onion-celery flavor, overwhelming." "Herbal smell, some chicken." "Odd flavor; can't figure out what it is." Who knew: Organic vegetable stock (organic carrot, organic onion, organic celery, sea salt, mushroom extract), organic evaporated cane juice, yeast extract, organic spice

Also tasted

Whole Foods 365 Organic Chicken Broth (4 points; $1.99 for 32 ounces; 6 cents per ounce): "Reminds me of Lipton's." "Thin no richness to flavor." "Tastes of celery and onions." Who knew: Organic chicken fat, organic evaporated cane juice, organic onion powder, organic garlic powder, organic cornstarch, organic tumeric (sic), organic spices, organic carrot powder

Pacific Natural Foods Organic Free Range Chicken Broth (4 points; $3.39 for 32 ounces; 11 cents per ounce): "Roasted chicken; strange floral sweet flavor." "Burnt taste, unpleasant." "Not overly salty, not much chicken flavor." Who knew: Evaporated cane juice, organic onion powder, turmeric, organic flavor

Swanson Chicken Stock (2.8 points; $3.69 for 26 ounces; 14 cents per ounce): "Taste of packaged spice mix." "Taste of vegetables overpowering." "No chicken flavor." "Less salty." Who knew: Carrots, cabbage, onions, celery, celery leaves, salt, parsley

The results: A first-place tie between Swanson and Progresso.

Mar 17 2010

Chill out with proper refrigerator temps

One of the best purchases for your kitchen is a refrigerator thermometer. It's a good check on those temperatures that are so crucial for proper food storage. And though the dial on the inside of the fridge may say one thing, you still need to double-check its accuracy.

The best temperature for foods is a range between 34 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit, according to Jackie Newgent, author of "Big Green Cookbook." But, she writes, "I keep my fridge set at 39 degrees - there is no need to go much lower than that" to keep food from spoiling. The freezer temperatureshould register 0 degrees.

Newgent also notes that appliances account for about 20 percent of a typical household's energy use. "The refrigerator is the biggest energy glutton in most household kitchens," she writes.

A few steps can reduce your refrigerator energy use:

Don't stand in front of the refrigerator with the door open, trying to make a decision.

Keep it nicely stocked, but not overstocked, for best energy efficiency.

Look for refrigerator thermometers at department stores and cookware shops. Prices range from $7 to $23.

How long should you store foods in the fridge? Go to the federal government site foodsafety.gov to find freezer and refrigerator storage times for many types of foods.

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