-Bertha Niven, West Kendall, Fla.

A: We appreciate patience from readers with pending recipe requests. Much as we'd like to, it's not possible to fulfill every request, nor to respond to them personally.

When a request arrives for a recipe from a restaurant, market or bakery, I send an inquiry asking if the chef is willing to share. Even if the answer is yes, the process can take months as we adapt the recipe for home use and send it on for nutritional analysis. Unfortunately, in many cases the answer is no, or there's no reply at all.

Epicure, which has provided many lovely recipes for Cook's Corner readers over the years, no longer responds to requests. But don't despair. Despite its strange ingredients, the brisket recipe here is my favorite and has been a hit with the many readers who have tried it since we first published it in 1995.

It's from a butcher shop in Cleveland Heights, Ohio, called Mister Brisket whose owner, Sanford Herskovitz, not only gave us his recipe, but a primer on the cut:

A brisket is composed of two parts, the point and the flat. Looking at the fat-covered side of the meat, the point looks like a hump. The flat looks flat and sits under the point.

A whole brisket is best for "taste, tenderness and texture," Mister Brisket told us, though most supermarkets sell prepackaged first-cut brisket (the flat portion only). This cut "has a tendency to turn out shrunken and dry because it lacks the fat," which he leaves on for cooking and removes before serving.

MISTER BRISKET'S CLASSIC RECIPE

1 (7- to 10-pound) whole brisket, point and flat intact, with 1/8-inch fat layer on top

1 (10-ounce) bottle Heinz chili sauce

1 envelope Lipton's onion soup mix

1 (12-ounce) can Coca-Cola

The first day: Heat oven to 325 degrees. Place brisket fat-side up in a roasting pan. Mix chili sauce with dry onion soup mix and cola and dump over the brisket, lifting to let some of the liquid spread underneath.

Cover and roast 2 to 3 hours, until the flat portion of the brisket is tender but still gives a slight tug as you pull out a fork. Transfer meat to a platter and allow it to cool to room temperature. Let the cooking liquid cool, too, and refrigerate, covered. Wrap the cooled meat in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or up to 5 days.

The day you serve: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Trim visible fat from cold brisket and place it, lean side up, on a cutting board. With a sharp knife, slice meat across or against the grain. (If slice appears stringy, you're cutting the wrong way.) Arrange slices in roaster.

Remove and discard hardened fat from top of the refrigerated cooking liquid, and bring it to a boil in a saucepan. Pour sauce over brisket slices, cover roaster and reheat in the oven for 1 hour. Makes 12 generous servings.

Per serving: 910 calories (75 percent from fat), 74.6 g fat (2.6 g saturated, 0 monounsaturated), 34 mg cholesterol, 44.6 g protein, 11.4 g carbohydrates, 0.2 g fiber, 726.5 mg sodium.

DELICIOUS DIP

At my Great Aunt Thelma's 90th birthday celebration - she's a leap year baby, so she's had only 22 actual birthdays - my second cousin Heather gave me an onion dip recipe I knew Cook's Corner readers would love. It tastes so good it will never get past the diet police, but it's a great indulgence. I might add a few drops of hot pepper sauce or some stone-ground mustard next time to take it up a notch.

BAKED SWEET ONION AND CHEESE DIP

2 cups shredded Swiss cheese

2 cups chopped Vidalia or other sweet onion

2 cups mayonnaise

2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese

Heat oven to 325 degrees. Stir cheese and onion into mayonnaise. Spoon into a lightly buttered 2-quart baking dish. Sprinkle with Parmesan, and bake, uncovered, 40 to 45 minutes. Serve with crackers. Makes about 6 cups, 24 servings.

Per serving (based on 24): 173 calories (88 percent from fat), 17.2 g fat (3.2 g saturated, 3.1 g monounsaturated), 19.5 mg cholesterol, 19.5 g protein, 2.2 g carbohydrates, 0.2 g fiber, 128.3 mg sodium.

Q: I've misplaced my recipe for Turtle Cake. You start with a chocolate cake mix.

-Gina Hodson

A: I first made this back in the 1960s. It's a sweet, chocolate and caramel overload that's easy to make. What's not to like!

EASY TURTLE CAKE

1 standard-size box chocolate cake mix

Oil and eggs as called for in cake-mix directions

1 (14-ounce) bag caramel candies

1/2 cup evaporated milk

1/2 cup (1 stick) margarine or butter

1 cup chocolate chips

1 cup chopped pecans

Confectioners' sugar

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 9-by-13-inch pan.

Mix the cake batter as directed on the box. Pour half the batter into the prepared pan and bake 15 minutes. Meanwhile, melt caramels with milk and margarine over low heat. Remove cake from oven and pour caramel mixture evenly over it. Sprinkle evenly with chips and pecans. Cover with remaining batter and return to oven. Bake 45 minutes. Cool cake on a wire rack. Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar before serving. Makes 15 servings.

Per serving: 430 calories (48 percent from fat), 25.7 g fat (5.8 g saturated, 11.1 g monounsaturated), 39 mg cholesterol, 5.8 g protein, 56.4 g carbohydrates, 1.6 g fiber, 441.5 mg sodium.

CORING PEPPERS

Beth Gledhill of Macon, Ga., sent two great tips after reading our recipe for jalapeno poppers. (Find it at MiamiHerald.com/food; click Recipes and scroll down.) She lightens them up with low-fat cheese such as Laughing Cow, chopped mushrooms and vegetarian sausage. And instead of buying a special "chile twister" tool, she "figured out years ago that my rounded, pointed-tip vegetable peeler works perfectly to core and remove seeds and membranes from the average size jalapeno."

MAKING FRUIT PIE

Nell Carlton, an Alabama reader, writes that using tapioca as a thickener for fruit-pie fillings makes them glossier and more flavorful because it holds more juice than cornstarch.

For those unfamiliar with tapioca, I'd add that it has no flavor. You can sometimes find instant tapioca. If your store only carries tapioca pearls, simply grind them in a food processor to a fine powder. When you make your filling, stir the powder into the sugar first to prevent lumps, then add the fruit. You need to cook the filling and let it stand for 10 to 15 minutes before pouring it into the crust to bake.

SLEUTH'S CORNER

Q: The Rock Beach Grill of Pembroke Pines had the best clam chowder I have ever tasted. Unfortunately, it has closed. Is there any chance of getting the recipe?

-Kathleen W.

(Contact Linda Cicero: lcicero(AT)MiamiHerald.com)

The packets can be served directly at the table or opened in the kitchen and served onto individual plates. I like to have each person open his own at the table so the first whiff can be savored as the parcel is opened. Once the package is ready, the cooking time is only 5 minutes.

Barley is an ancient grain known to have been cultivated in Neolithic times. Today, barley is used mostly for stews and soups, but it is very good simply boiled, seasoned and served as an alternative to rice. This pearl barley will take about 30 minutes to make. Start it first and then make the fish dish. It can also be microwaved. Place in a microwave-safe bowl and cook on high 20 minutes. No time for barley? Use a quick cooking rice instead.

This meal contains 554 calories per serving with 27 percent of calories from fat.

Helpful Hints:

-Vermouth can be substituted for the wine.

-Any type of white fish can be used such as tilapia, dolphin, sole.

-Shredded carrots can be found in the produce section of the market.

Countdown:

-Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

-Start Pearl Barley

-Make fish.

FRAGRANT FISH PARCELS

3 teaspoons olive oil

1 cup shredded carrots

1 cup frozen diced or chopped onion

1/2 cup sliced mushrooms

2 circles parchment paper or aluminum foil about 10-inches in diameter

2 6-ounce fish fillets

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 to 6 leaves fresh basil, torn into small pieces

3 tablespoons dry white wine

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place olive oil, carrots, onion and mushrooms in a microwave-safe bowl. Toss gently. Microwave on high 2 minutes. Or, saute in a skillet 5 minutes. Divide the vegetables between the two parchment paper or foil circles. Place one fish fillet on top of each of the vegetables. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste Place basil leaves on top of fish. Spoon wine over the fish. Close the parcels and seal the edges together. Place the parcels on a baking tray. Bake 8 minutes if using parchment paper, 12 minutes if using foil. The fish is done when it is no longer translucent. Serve the parcels on individual plates. Makes 2 servings.

Per serving: 318 calories (26 percent from fat), 9.3 g fat (1.5 g saturated, 5.4 g monounsaturated), 60 mg cholesterol, 39.6 g protein, 17.1 g carbohydrates, 4.4 g fiber, 142 mg sodium.

PEARL BARLEY

1/2 cup pearl barley

4 cups water

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place barley and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil 20 minutes or until barley is soft. Drain and add the olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Makes 2 servings.

Per serving: 236 calories (28 percent from fat), 7.3 g fat ( 1.1 g saturated, 5.1 g monounsaturated), no mg cholesterol, 5.0 g protein, 38.9 g carbohydrates, 7.8 g fiber, 5 mg sodium.

SHOPPING LIST

Here are the ingredients you'll need for tonight's Dinner in Minutes.

To buy: 1 package shredded carrots, 1 container sliced mushrooms, 1 small bunch fresh basil, 1 package frozen diced or chopped onion, 1 roll parchment paper or aluminum foil, 2 6-ounce fish fillets, 1 package pearl barley and1 bottle dry white wine.

Staples: Olive oil, salt and black peppercorns.

(Linda Gassenheimer is the author of 14 cookbooks including her newest, "Mix 'n Match Meals in Minutes for People with Diabetes," and "Prevention's Fit and Fast Meals in Minutes." Visit Linda on her web page at www.DinnerInMinutes.com or email her at Linda@DinnerInMinutes.com.)

You can find an array of balsamic vinegars in most supermarkets, right next to the cider and wine vinegars. Prices in specialty stores can top $100 for a small bottle, so it helps to understand the origin and subtleties of balsamic vinegar.

Unlike most vinegars, which start with fruit juice or wine, balsamic starts with unfermented trebbiano grape must (crushed grapes). Cooked in big kettles, it turns to vinegar with the addition of a starter yeast. The color deepens and becomes more opaque and the flavor grows in complexity as the vinegar is aged in a series of barrels of different sizes and woods for 12 to 25 years.

Authentic balsamics come from Modena or Reggio Emilia, towns in northern Italy where this traditional style of balsamic vinegar was codified in the 18th century. The highest-quality vinegar is labeled "tradizionale" and sold in tiny bottles, to be used in very small amounts because it's so concentrated. Some chefs keep it in a spray bottle and spritz it on food.

Balsamics in the $3-$14 range are likely nothing more than ordinary wine vinegar with caramel added for coloring and sugar added to mimic the sweetness of the real thing. Chefs have a trick to "improve" them, however; They melt a teaspoon of dark brown sugar and stir it into a cup of the lesser vinegar.

For an everyday value, look for bottles labeled "Aceto Balsamico di Modena" at supermarkets. As an indulgence, seek out a small bottle of higher-grade balsamic (marked "condimento" or "tradizionale") from a specialty shop or an Italian market.

BALSAMIC GLAZED VEGETABLES WITH PASTA

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 red bell pepper, cut into \-inch-wide strips

1 yellow bell pepper, cut into \-inch-wide strips

1 large onion, thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

2 zucchini, trimmed, cut crosswise into \-inch-thick rounds

2 yellow summer squash, trimmed, cut crosswise into \-inch-thick rounds

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

8 ounces fusilli pasta (spirals)

1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Bring pasta cooking water to a boil.

Heat oil in large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Saute peppers, onion and garlic they begin to soften, about 4 minutes. Add zucchini and yellow squash and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add vinegar to skillet; boil until liquid is reduced to a glaze and coats vegetables, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, cook pasta according to package directions. Drain well and add to the skillet along with the cheese; stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve at once, passing extra cheese at the table, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

Per serving: 371 calories (24 percent from fat), 9.9 g fat (2.3 g saturated, 5.6 g monounsaturated), 5.5 mg cholesterol, 13.3 g protein, 59 g carbohydrates, 5.6 g fiber, 118 mg sodium.

(Carole Kotkin is manager of the Ocean Reef Club cooking school and co-author of "Mmmmiami: Tempting Tropical Tastes for Home Cooks Everywhere.")

There's always something new, something exotic, something fabulous. Here are some of my favorites from this year and the stories behind them:

2006 Maison Alex Gambal Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Appellation Clos Vougeot Controllee, Burgundy, France (pinot noir): pale red hue, aromas of smoke and violets, flavors of tart cherries, cloves and minerals, very smooth, long finish; $170.

Alex Gambal is living every wine fan's dream. A real estate executive in Washington, D.C., he started poking through a local wine shop and got interested.

"In 1992 my wife and I took a vacation to France. We had dreamed of taking a sabbatical year and perhaps working in the wine industry. On vacation we met Becky Wasserman, a wine exporter in Burgundy. During an evening of good food and wine at Becky's we discussed the idea of an apprenticeship at 36 years old, and by the evening's end we had agreed to move to France."

Today he's a respected Burgundy vineyard owner and exporter. So, keep dreaming.

2007 Chateau d'Esclans "Whispering Angel" Rose, Cotes de Provence, France (grenache, rolle, cinsault, syrah, mourvedre): light and dry and lively, with intense tart strawberry and cinnamon flavors; $19.

Sacha Lichine, owner of Chateau D'Esclans, runs in lofty social circles. At a dinner party on the Riviera, he met Denise Rich, a socialite who was setting up a foundation to fight cancer in memory of her daughter, Gabrielle Rich Aouad, who had died of leukemia.

Rich talked Lichine into donating wine for a charity dinner on her yacht in St. Tropez, and he sent his "Whispering Angel," feeling it appropriate.

How did it get its name? "We have a chapel at our chateau with two angels at the altar. One time I heard them whispering to me."

Multivintage Krug Grande Cuvee Brut Champagne, Reims; long-lasting pinpoint bubbles, toasty, nutty aroma, fresh citrus flavors with an oxidative quality that reminds one of baked apples, even beer; creamy, lingering finish; $170.

Krugistes, as its cult followers call themselves, use all the dark and brooding adjectives to describe it - nutty, toasty, oaky, spicy, dense, rich, powerful, oxidative, with flavors of minerals, ginger, marzipan, almonds, pears, smoke, even beer. Yet it always retains a certain creamy freshness.

2007 Planeta Burdese, Sicily IGT (70 percent cabernet sauvignon, 30 percent cabernet franc): inky hue, rich and powerful with aromas and flavors of black plums, mocha and tar, muscular tannins, good steak wine; $32.

What's the biggest wine-producing region of Italy? Sicily, of course - more than Tuscany or Piemonte. To be sure, 80 percent of Sicily's wines are bulk stuff, but the other 20 percent is led by the Planeta family, which in just 13 years has established four vineyards and two wineries. This wine will put Sicily on the world map of wine.

(Contact the writer: ftasker(AT)MiamiHerald.com)

Yet star fruit is more than a whimsical garnish for a cocktail. It can be a versatile cooking ingredient, and it is perfect for drying - an excellent option for home gardeners with a bumper crop.

I confess I had never been impressed with carambola's flavor, finding the standard commercial variety, Arkin, blandly sweet. But then Mike Winterstein, a research technician at the USDA Agricultural Research Service's station at Chapman Field, gave me a taste of his favorite cultivar, the Fwang Tung.

I was blown away by its intense flavor, delicious sweet-tart balance and abundant juiciness. I could imagine adding slices of it to a shrimp dish flavored with vanilla and hot peppers or grilling it with fish or pork until just golden brown, basted with a bit of olive oil.

The Fwang Tung, a Thai native, is one of 22 cultivars at Chapman Field in Coral Gables. Its deep, unwieldy wings mean it probably will never have the commercial viability of the compact and packable Arkin, but the University of Florida's Dr. Jonathan Crane foresees a boutique niche for such superlative fruits. Crane, a tropical fruit crop specialist, also sees a market for dehydrated carambola (see infobox).

Another of the cultivars I tasted at Chapman Field was the tart Golden Star, the first important commercial variety in Florida before it was demoted by the sweeter Arkin. It is the favorite of Becky Campbell, whose late husband, Dr. Carl W. Campbell, was instrumental in its propagation. (Their son, Dr. Richard Campbell, is senior curator of tropical fruit at Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden.)

Becky Campbell appreciates the Golden Star precisely for its sourness, finding that its tang is perfectly suited to desserts calling for brown sugar like her upside-down carambola cake (see recipe). Her advice to cooks is "not to overcook the fruit."

"Some carambolas need some jazzing up, a bit of this or that to bring out their full flavor, but never smash the fruit too much; never overcook it," she told me.

Like her, I prefer to cook the fruit as little as possible before using it in an upside-down cake or as a filling for a pie or sweet empanada or a topping for ice cream or cake. Ingredients such as cinnamon, star anise, ginger and aged rum enhance its fragrance, and flavorful Latin American brown loaf sugar brings out its honey notes.

Carambola is also terrific in savories. Sliced raw, it blends beautifully with cubed Florida avocado and peppery watercress in a salad dressed with a chile-spiked vinaigrette. A few cooked and chilled shrimp turn it into a light main course.

Grilling is another way of coaxing great flavor from carambola slices. Glaze the fruit with a bit of a spiced brown sugar or a tart hibiscus syrup and a little olive oil.

Braised with chicken or pork in a sultry fricassee, stir-fried with Asian ingredients, added to rice dishes or chopped into a spicy salsa in lieu of tomatoes (one of Mike Winterstein's favorite uses), carambola adds an elusive flavor and distinctive texture.

Juicy varieties such as Arkin, Fwang Tung and Golden Star are also delicious in juices. At my kitchen market, Ultramarinos, I juice carambola with tart Granny Smith apples and a bit of ginger and add the mixture to freshly brewed oolong tea for a most refreshing iced tea.

Carambola is a bountiful tree that bears fruit in both winter and summer, giving much pleasure to anyone who cares to look beyond its glossy, shapely exterior.

BECKY CAMPBELL'S CARAMBOLA UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

This is my adaptation of a cake by Becky Campbell, widow of the respected horticulturist Carl W. Campbell, who uses the tart Golden Star carambolas her late husband planted in their backyard. The cake is traditionally cooked in a cast-iron skillet, but can also be made in a 9-inch round cake pan. Noris Ledesma studs it with cooked cranberries for a festive color contrast. If possible, use a grated Latin brown loaf sugar like panela or a light Muscovado or Demerara sugar. For a quick dessert, prepare carambola slices as directed through the cooling step, remove the whole spices and serve over ice cream or pound cake.

THE CARAMBOLA

5 medium size carambolas, rinsed and patted dry and sliced into 1/2-inch slices

1/4 cup brown sugar (see note above)

1 tablespoon butter

1 stick soft Ceylon cinnamon (canela)

2 star anise

1/2 inch peeled fresh ginger

1 teaspoon lime juice (if using a sweet cultivar like Arkin)

THE GLAZE

3 tablespoons brown sugar (see note above)

3 tablespoon butter, softened

THE CAKE BATTER

2 cups all-purpose flour (or cake flour for a softer crumb), sifted

1 1/2 teaspoons double-acting baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened

3 large eggs

1 cup sour cream

1/4 to 1/2 cup coconut flakes (optional)

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Prepare carambola: Seed carambola slices. In a skillet, heat sugar, butter, cinnamon, star anise, ginger and lime juice with 1/4 cup water over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Add carambola and cook, tossing gently, until glazed and softened a bit, about 7 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Make glaze: Beat butter and sugar with a wooden spoon in a small bowl until mixed. Butter a 9-inch cured cast-iron skillet or a 9-inch round cake pan. Spread butter mixture on bottom and set aside.

Mix batter: Whisk the flour with the baking powder and salt; set aside. In another bowl, beat the sugar with the butter until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time. By hand with a rubber spatula or globe whisk, fold the dry ingredients into the butter mixture in three additions, alternating with the sour cream and coconut.

Bake cake: Remove the cinnamon and star anise from the carambola, and arrange the slices in the skillet as artfully as possibly. (Reserve cooking sauce.) Pour the batter over the fruit and smooth with a spatula. Bake about 40 minutes.

Unmold cake onto a platter and drizzle with reserved cooking sauce. Makes 12 servings.

Per serving: 313 calories (46 percent from fat), 16.1 g fat (9 g saturated, 4.2 g monounsaturated), 91.2 mg cholesterol, 5 g protein, 39.3 g carbohydrates, 1.6 g fiber, 338.6 mg sodium.

IN THE GARDEN

Choosing trees: At Williams Grove, Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden's Homestead research facility, curators Richard Campbell and Noris Ledesma have selected seven cultivars they consider best for South Florida: B-10 (requiring two trees for cross pollination), Golden Star, Fwang Tung, Kari, Arkin, Sri Kembangam and Thai Knight. Four of them - Kari, Sri Kembangam, Fwang Tung and Arkin - are available at Pine Island Nursery, 16300 SW 184th St., Miami; 305-233-5501, www.tropicalfruitnursery.com. Prices range from $27 for a 3-gallon container to $175 for a 25-gallon container.

Picking fruit: Fruit experts agree that for carambola to ripen properly off the tree, it must be picked at color break, that is, when it begins to show yellow. At home, leave greenish carambolas out until yellow and fragrant, refrigerating only when fully ripe. Even if the wings are bruised, the fruit is fine for cooking.

DRYING CARAMBOLA

Dried carambola makes a terrific snack - and a wonderful solution for home gardeners with a bumper crop. Here are tips from Noris Ledesma of Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden:

Dehydrators: The best machines have an electric heating element, temperature controls, fans and Teflon mesh trays. (Ledesma recommends the nine-drawer Excalibur, $180-$200 from online retailers or 800-875-4254.) A household oven can be used if the temperature can be set low enough.

Procedure: Select firm, ripe, unblemished fruit. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Cut the carambola (lengthwise or crosswise) into slices up to 1 inch thick. Arrange them flat, without clumping, on trays. Set the dehydrator at 125 to 135 degrees, and let it run for 10 to 12 hours, until the fruit reaches the desired consistency. Fruit that is too soft or moist does not store well. Drying time varies with thickness of slices, amount of fruit and humidity.

(Culinary historian Maricel E. Presilla is the chef/co-owner of Cucharamama and Zafra in Hoboken, N.J. Her latest book is "The New Taste of Chocolate.")

Tal Ronnen, the chef who cooked for Oprah during her 21-day vegan cleanse, has written "The Conscious Cook" (Morrow, $29.99). His book is elegant, his recipes ambitious, requiring time and ingredients such as seitan, kombu (a sea vegetable) and nutritional yeast (a cheesy-tasting vegan yeast fortified with B-12). They're available at natural food stores and come together in dishes such as free-form ravioli with tofu ricotta and arugula pesto - luscious but labor-intensive, like Ronnen's other recipes.

Dynise Balcavage's "The Urban Vegan," (Three Forks, $16.95) is less fussy, more funky, with vegan versions of sophisticated eats. It also requires specialty ingredients, but delectable dishes such as millet-crusted mushroom-leek pie and cherry-chocolate chunk scones are easy to make.

Billing itself as a cookbook for real people in the real world, Donna Klein's "Supermarket Vegan" (Penguin, $18.95) pairs canned and frozen ingredients with fresh produce and whole grains. Recipes such as arborio rice salad with black beans and toasted corn may lack innovative flair, but they're fast, easy and made from supermarket ingredients.

You want flair, easy and vegan, too? While you're at the store, pick up Maison le Grand's small-batch, ready-made tapenades and pestos ($6.99, 5.5 ounces). There are a few plant-based options among the half-dozen varieties, including garden pesto, a cheeseless, vegan-friendly treat made to be tossed with noodles and roasted veggies or slathered on crusty whole grain bread.

This additive-free, intensely herbaceous sauce (basil, parsley, canola oil, lemon juice and garlic) has 110 calories per 2-tablespoon serving, 12 grams fat and 210 milligrams sodium. Find it in the fridge section of Whole Foods and Fresh Market, near the fancy cheeses.

ARBORIO RICE SALAD WITH BLACK BEANS AND TOASTED CORN

2/3 cup arborio rice

1/2 tablespoon canola oil

1 1/2 cups frozen yellow corn, thawed and drained on paper towels

Garlic salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1 (15-ounce) can black beans, rinsed and drained

1 1/2 cups salsa or picante sauce

4 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced

Cook the rice in a pot of boiling water until tender yet firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes. Drain. Rinse under cold water to cool and drain again.

In a medium nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the corn and cook, tossing and stirring, until browned and fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and season with garlic salt and pepper. Set aside to cool, about 15 minutes.

In a large bowl, mix the black beans with the rice, corn, salsa and scallions. Taste and season with additional garlic salt and pepper if needed. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours. Makes 4 servings.

Source: Adapted from "Supermarket Vegan" by Donna Klein ($18.95).

Per serving: 544 calories (47 percent from fat), 29.2 g fat (2.5 g saturated, 16.6 g monounsaturated), 0 cholesterol, 11.8 g protein, 62.9 g carbohydrates, 12.1 g fiber, 667.4 mg sodium.

(Ellen Kanner writes about vegetarian concerns. She blogs at www.edgyveggie.blogspot.com.)

So you might wonder why Petrossian, the posh Manhattan company selling all things caviar, is taking a chance with a new product called Caviarcubes. Pressed caviars are shaped into small squares and packed in olive oil. You get about 18 cubes (a little less than 3/4 ounce) to a jar, which costs $45 at petrossian.com.

The caviar looks like shiny, all-black dice. The texture is utterly smooth; think of an old-fashioned licorice whip. There's a distinct caviar flavor to the cubes, which is nice, but there's also a certain briny bitterness. It's an acquired taste, even for this devoted caviar lover.

Pressed caviar is salted and pressed roe and very different from fresh caviar, according to "The New Food Lover's Companion." It's often made from a combination of types, and sometimes with damaged eggs that couldn't be presented whole.

Petrossian suggests using these pressed caviar cubes as a topping for cocktail canapes, oysters or "baked spuds."

Serve with cocktails or a good beer.

Eloquent of speech and a graceful writer (read her often poetical tweets on Twitter: (at)cathycorison), Corison has been a tireless champion of "terroir"-driven wines, wines ripe with the unique flavor of region and vine, but also what is in the heart and mind of the winemaker.

"After making wine for others for many years, I made my first Corison cabernet with a clear stylistic vision of what I was trying to do," Corison wrote in an e-mail. "My goal is to make Napa Valley benchland cabernet with both power and elegance that graces the table and enjoys a long, distinguished life. Of course each vintage deals us a new hand, but the vision is still the same. I hope I've gotten better and better at realizing it."

With her top-of-the-line cab from her cherished Kronos Vineyard selling for about $100, Corison realizes she has to deliver.

"At the high end, a wine must distinguish itself from others or perish eventually. It needs to have something to say," she explained.

Corison, too, has plenty to say about why such wines, carefully, lovingly and traditionally made, are growing in relevance today.

Q: You say there's a renewed interest in a "wine's ability to express time and place." What do you mean by time and place? Why is that important?

A: Where and how a grapevine grows has a direct impact on the way a wine tastes. Everything that touches a vineyard contributes to a sense of place, beginning with the soil and climate and including the people involved and everything they do.

Time comes into play in many ways. Every vintage is different because the weather varies, so we can't make exactly the same wine twice, even from the same vineyard. As winemakers, we are always operating in several time frames at once, watching our library vintages evolve, working with two vintages in the cellar and growing the grapes this year for the upcoming harvest. Even if we live a very long life, our vintages are numbered. Age-worthy wines mark time as they age, unlike almost anything else. The aromas and flavors of wine have an uncanny ability to evoke memories and emotions.

Q: How is that interest in time and place manifested?

A: Renewed talk of terroir is in the air again with both winemakers and consumers. Perhaps it's a reaction against sameness? A search for meaning? Wine is great for washing down your food, but it can be so much more. Wine with a soul can give you something to think about and feel. It is alive, and like an interesting person, fun to follow through the ups and downs of a long life.

Q: But aren't we seeing worldwide a trend toward consolidation of ownership, industrialization of the winemaking process and a whole lot of anonymous plonk meant to be drunk right now? How does one fight that?

A: Stubbornness, I guess. In the end all anyone has to sell is their integrity, and for me, that is honoring the vineyard. I take it as a moral obligation to let these great vineyards speak and make wines with a chance at a long, interesting life. I believe that the Napa Valley can produce cabernet as well or better than anywhere else in the world. I am so lucky to have the chance to spend my life helping great vineyards express themselves.

THE WINES

Cathy Corison makes a number of wines, but only two are widely available outside the winery. Our tasting panel sampled both late in 2009, giving both a rating of "very good."

2005 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon Kronos Vineyard

A super-smooth cab with raspberry and violets on the nose and a flavor that combines berry, wood, spice and mint into a seamless whole. Long, spicy finish ends with a dash of black pepper. Serve with rack of lamb, beef tenderloin. $98

2006 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon

So purple it almost looks like blueberry juice, this Napa cab is smooth and silky, with a nose of plum and incense and a slow-building berry flavor that fades into a long finish. Deceptively powerful. Serve with beef roulade, filet mignon, rack of lamb. $70

These front-of-package labels may "so thoroughly mislead the public that another option deserves consideration - eliminate all nutrition and health claims from the front of processed food packages," Marion Nestle and David Ludwig, two nutrition experts, wrote in the journal.

That may be a long shot, but clearly regulators - namely the U.S. Food and Drug Administration - are interested in making some changes.

On March 3, the agency announced it had sent 17 warning letters to food manufacturers asking them to correct misleading labels. The same day, FDA Commissioner Margaret Hamburg issued an open letter to the industry underscoring the importance of reliable food labeling.

"The Obama administration has given the signal that the FDA will be more aggressive in the area of food labeling," said Bruce Silverglade, legal affairs director at the Center for Science in the Public Interest, which had been discussing the issue with the agency for months and this week released a report called "Food Labeling Chaos: The Case for Reform."

Indeed, last fall Hamburg announced her agency would be taking a closer look, noting that "some nutritionists have questioned whether (label) information is more marketing-oriented than health-oriented."

Though many of the center's labeling concerns remained unaddressed, Silverglade praised the FDA's warning letters, saying he hopes the deceptive food labeling "party is over and we are in a new era."

An FDA study released this week found that, for the first time, more than half of consumers surveyed say they often read labels. But they are also skeptical of industry claims such as "low fat," "high fiber" and "cholesterol free."

Here is a guide to help you navigate the still-confusing food labeling landscape.

IMMUNITY CLAIMS

The problem: Products are marketed as supportive of the immune system because of the vitamins they contain. It's true that severe vitamin deficiencies can weaken immunity, but such deficiencies are not common in the developed world. Otherwise there's little scientific evidence that vitamins, minerals and specific foods benefit the immune system.

Example: Northfield-based Kraft Foods' Crystal Light Immunity powdered beverage mixes. The front label for Crystal Light Immunity's Natural Cherry Pomegranate drink says "Antioxidants A, C & E help support a healthy immune system."

Critical view: "These vitamins are necessary to stay alive, but adding them to Crystal Light won't lessen your chances of contracting a disease," said the center's Silverglade.

Company response: Responding in the center's recent report, Kraft said: "We do not expect, or claim, that consumption of Crystal Light Immunity ... will - in and of itself - significantly impact immune function." Kraft spokeswoman Bridget MacConnell told the Tribune that the firm has "a team of nutritionists and legal experts who carefully review the science and the law before we put any claims on our products."

Possible fix: The center proposes that any immunity claim by a food-maker get approval from the FDA first.

FIBER CLAIMS

The problem: Food manufacturers are adding fiber to yogurt, ice cream, drinks and other foods that were previously fiber free or contained only small amounts. But there's no evidence that the "isolated fibers" being added have the same beneficial effects of naturally occurring dietary fiber. It's generally agreed that oat bran and barley, for instance, lower cholesterol and thus have a cardiovascular benefit. That's not the case with isolated fiber.

Example: Minnesota-based General Mills' Fiber One line of products, which includes yogurt, toaster muffin mixes and breakfast bars. The label on a box of bars boasts that they contain 35 percent of the needed daily amount of fiber. That's because the bars contain inulin, a powdered, isolated fiber derived from chicory root.

Critical view: "The label just says fiber," Silverglade said. "But isolated fibers don't have the same effect."

Company response: "We select and use natural fibers based on how they perform in the product - especially in terms of taste," General Mills said in a statement. "Inulin is a natural fiber present in many grains, vegetables and fruits, such as wheat, onions, leeks, bananas and garlic. It is also present in chicory roots. Scientific evidence supports a wide variety of fibers, including inulin, as promoting regularity."

Silver lining: Regardless of fiber claims, inulin is "absolutely the best prebiotic," said Joanne Slavin, a fiber expert and food science professor at the University of Minnesota. Prebiotics are good for the digestive tract and help promote healthy bowel movements.

Possible fix: The center has proposed that the FDA clarify the regulatory definition of fiber to include only fibers from whole grains, beans and other foods. If chicory root extract is on an ingredient list, the product's fiber probably comes from inulin.

SERVING SIZES

The problem: Serving sizes, which are determined by the Food and Drug Administration, often are smaller than what the average person eats. For chips it can be six pieces; soup is a cup; cereal is a half-cup. Consequently, what may seem like a single-serving package can contain two or more servings. The front-of-the-package health claims, however, only have to apply to a single serving.

Example: Healthy Choice Italian Style Wedding soup may look like it should serve one, but a closer examination reveals that the package actually contains about two servings. It's called "Healthy Choice," but if someone ate the whole container (1.75 cups), he or she would consume 777 mg of sodium, more than a third of the daily recommended sodium limit for an adult.

Critical view: It's the kind of thing one would normally pop into the microwave for lunch," said Silverglade, but for it to be considered healthy, "you'd have to envision someone putting this in the microwave and sharing it with a friend."

Company response: "We don't have statistics on what percentage of consumers eat the entire contents in one sitting or two, but anecdotally, we know that both situations occur. Our front-of-package labeling is consistent with the nutrition fact panel, which calls out the fact that there are two servings in the package," said a ConAgra Foods representative.

Possible fix: The center proposes that the FDA reassess serving sizes to better reflect how much the average person eats, as well as requiring that the nutritional claims on the front of the package reflect that new amount.

TRANS FATS

The problem: A product that contains less than 0.5 grams of trans fats per serving can be labeled as having 0 grams. So it's possible to exceed the American Heart Association's recommended limit of 2 grams a day by eating several servings of those foods. Zero trans-fat foods also can contain very high levels of unhealthy saturated fat.

Example: The packaging of Edy's Dibs bite-size frozen snacks proclaims "0 trans fats," which is true. But one serving also provides 75 percent of an adult's daily limit of saturated fat.

Critical view: Silverglade said an FDA rule states that "if a product has more than 20 percent of the daily value (per serving) of sodium, saturated fat or cholesterol, you essentially can't make certain health claims on the label - i.e. vitamin and mineral claims," because it would make an unhealthy product appear healthy. But with a product containing high levels of unhealthy saturated fat, "you can still make trans fat claims," he said.

Company response: "We stand behind (the product's) nutritional quality. ... Dreyer's intends to fully cooperate with the FDA to bring this matter to a conclusion."

Tip: If you see partially hydrogenated oils on the ingredient list, assume that two servings could deliver almost half your daily limit of trans fats. Also check the saturated fat levels.

Possible fix: The center recommends prohibiting the use of "0g trans fats" when the products are not also low in saturated fat and cholesterol. FDA's recent letter to Nestle instructed the company to place the words "See nutrition information for fat and saturated fat content" next to that claim.

Other pitfalls

Natural: This is an unregulated term, except in meat (where it means minimally processed with no artificial colors or flavors). The FDA has no official definition but has suggested "natural" foods should contain no artificial substances. "Natural" was the most common claim on new products last year, according to the consumer research firm Mintel.

100 percent juice: Juices such as cranberry or pomegranate making this claim may also contain a large amount of other, cheaper juices like white grape. Check the ingredient label.

Hormone-free chicken: The U.S. Department of Agriculture doesn't allow poultry to be injected with hormones, so the claim is virtually meaningless. Hormone-free chickens may be treated with non-therapeutic antibiotics, which also act as growth boosters.

Whole grain: The FDA says products labeled "100 percent whole grain" should contain no other types of grain, but it does not specify the amount needed for a product to be labeled "whole grain." The Whole Grains Council offers "100 percent Whole Grain" and "Whole Grain" certified stamps; it says the latter means at least 50 percent whole grain.

Real fruit: The FDA does not regulate the amount of real fruit a product must contain in order to use this claim. See where fruit ranks on the ingredient list for guidance.

In a move the food industry hasn't seen in decades, the Food and Drug Administration recently fired off 17 warning letters to manufacturers of these products, telling them to fix misleading food labels:

Products: Mrs. Smith's Classic Coconut Custard Pie, Dreyer's Dibs Bite Sized Ice Cream Snacks, Gorton's Beer Batter Crispy Battered Fish Fillets

Violation: Because of the amount of total fat, saturated fat and/or cholesterol the foods contain, a phrase such as "See nutrition information for fat, saturated fat and cholesterol content" must be displayed next to the label's claim of 0 grams trans fat.

Products: Gerber Graduates Fruit Puffs, Organic Fruit and Veggie Juice Beverage, Baby Mum-Mum Original Selected Superior Rice Rusks, Juicy Juice Brain Development Fruit Juice, Parents Choice Little Puffs Plus Calcium Blueberry Naturally Flavored, Beech-Nut Whole Grain Oatmeal & Mixed Fruit Cereal

Violation: Labels make nutrient claims such as "a good source of calcium" or "fortified and enhanced functional benefits" and "50 percent less sugar" that are not permissible for products aimed at kids younger than 2. Only percentages of vitamins and minerals for which there are "recommended daily intakes" may be noted.

Products: Juicy Juice All Natural 100 percent Juice Orange Tangerine and Juicy Juice All Natural 100 percent Juice Grape

Violations: The names mislead the consumer into thinking that the juices contain 100 percent orange-tangerine juice or grape juice when they do not. The labels also present nutrient content claims not allowed for food aimed at kids younger than 2.

Products: Diamond Walnuts, Pom Wonderful 100 percent Pomegranate Juice, Salada Naturally Decaffeinated Green Tea, Dr. Lee's TeaForHealth

Violation: Health claims on the products' Web sites promote them as items intended for "the cure, mitigation, treatment or prevention of disease," which can be applied only to FDA-approved drugs.

Product: Pompeian Imported Extra Light Olive Oil

Violation: Uses the term "light" despite its fat content.

Products: Ken's Healthy Options Parmesan & Peppercorn, Sweet Vidalia Onion Vinaigrette and Raspberry Walnut dressings

Violation: Labels make "healthy" claim although the dressings' fat and nutrient levels do not meet the requirements.

Product: Sunsweet Antioxidant Blend Dried Fruit Mix

Violation: Label's "high-antioxidant" and "full of nutritious antioxidants" wording amounts to unauthorized claims of nutrient content because they don't include information about nutrients.

Don't call this a replacement for original Wheaties, it just wouldn't cut it, but it is a pretty charming sister cereal. Developed with input from a physician and big-time athletes like Peyton Manning and Albert Pujols, it aims to keep performance and health in mind, but this time with a variety of flakes and puffs and a sweet honey-cinnamon flavor. Available in supermarkets nationwide for about $5.

TCHO-COLATE HABIT

Tcho-A-Day 30 suggests self-medication by chocolate: 14 individually wrapped dark chocolate squares (.28 ounces each) prescribed for "inspiration, happy heart, coping, focus, optimism and even euphoria." Buy the one-month supply bottle for $20 or a "Discover the Flavors" pack of four 60-gram bars for $21, on tcho.com.

PICK THIS PEPPER

Alessi's Piccantino pepper cruncher combines transparent silicone red rubber and polished steel for this cute and kitschy, but useful, gizmo that helps you grind, spread and store dried red chilies without having to handle them. Available at the end of March for $26 at unicahome.com.