Dec 14 2009
B is for book (and baking)
What do you get a cook who has everything? Well, that's the thing about cooks. They can't have everything, because there is always something new - especially cookbooks. Some of us read them like novels. Others use them for inspiration. A few actually cook from them. Regardless of their purpose, cookbooks are a welcome addition to any kitchen. Take a peek at some our favorites from this year.
INSPIRING TREATS FROM THE OVEN
Good things come to those who bake. After a ho-hum 2009, this season's baking books make gift-giving - or your own list-making - a joy. Here are some of our favorites:
-"Rose's Heavenly Cakes" by Rose Levy Berenbaum (Wiley, 498 pages, $39.95). Berenbaum has a reputation for meticulous recipes of daunting length, and this 512-page book is no exception. But, oh, you've rarely seen such cakes: White Gold Passion Genoise with passion fruit curd, Apple Caramel Charlotte that looks like a pale peony, Chocolate Banana Stud Cake with inventively employed chocolate chips. The more than 100 recipes run the gamut of cakedom, each with exquisite photographs and, for the faint of heart, crystal-clear instructions.
-"Petite Sweets: Bite-Size Desserts to Satisfy Every Sweet Tooth" by Beatrice Ojakangas (Sellers, 136 pages, $18.95). Duluth's Ojakangas makes downsizing a good thing in what may be the year's cutest cookbook. She's miniaturized classic desserts such as Fresh Lime Pie, Fresh Ginger Carrot Cake, Bread Pudding and dozens more, lending them a new identity while leading the charge against overindulgence. The 144-page book's photos provide presentation tips; most recipes hold to a page. She will teach classes Friday (6 p.m.) and Saturday (noon) at Byerly's St. Louis Park, with book signings after. Cost is $15
(www.lundsandbyerlys.com).
-"Sweet and Savory Swedish Baking" by Leila Lindholm (Skyhorse, 223 pages, $29.95). Once Sweden's female chef of the year, Lindholm presents more than 200 recipes for pies, cakes, flans, yeast breads, crackers, Scandinavian specialties and much, much more. There's a helpful troubleshooting section, two indexes (by recipe and by ingredient) and tons of photos. It's an impressive collection by a voice that may be new to many on this side of the pond.
-"The Flour Pot Christmas Cookie Book" by Margie & Abbey Greenberg (Running, 136 pages, $16.95). This book isn't for beginners, but it's inspiring in an "uber-Martha" kind of way. Fondant, royal icing and all manner of pastry bags and tips are employed in these breathtaking yet time-thieving cookies.
-"Artisan Breads Every Day," by Peter Reinhart (Ten Speed Press, 218 pages, $30). Avid bread bakers are always waiting for Reinhart's latest book. This one is his response to the quickie artisan bread bandwagon with 50 recipes built on time-saving tips. And a first: Reinhart does pastries. As always, there are baker's percentages, stories and wisdom from the best.
-"My Bread: The Revolutionary No-Work, No-Knead Method" by Jim Lahey (Norton, $29.95). This is Lahey's response to all the books that came in the wake of his no-knead bread recipe being published in 2006. It's bread and more, as he ventures into sandwiches, with recipes for making many filling ingredients from scratch, and a chapter on what to do with stale bread.
-"Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day" by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois (St. Martin's Press, 324 pages, $27.99). Minnesota's five-minute bread duo are back with variations on their original theme, getting whole grains, fruits and vegetables into their master recipe, plus a whole chapter on gluten-free breads. Lots of tips and the answers to FAQs from the first book.
GREEK-STYLE HONEY-NUT PASTRIES
Makes 24.
Note: Phyllo (or filo) is available frozen in supermarkets.
1 pkg. (1 lb.) frozen phyllo dough, thawed
2/3 c. melted butter
1 c. coarsely chopped walnuts
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp. ground cloves
1 tbsp. dry bread crumbs
Honey Syrup (recipe follows)
Directions: Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
On a working surface, make a stack of five phyllo sheets, brushing each with melted butter (use about half the butter). Cut the stack into 24 squares. Line the cavities of a 24-cup miniature muffin pan with the phyllo squares. Trim ends to form round cups. Cover with damp cloth to keep the pastry moist.
Roll up the remaining pastry and, with a sharp knife, cut into very thin shreds (about 1/16- inch thick). Divide into 24 equal portions. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside.
Mix the walnuts, cinnamon, cloves and bread crumbs in a bowl.
Take one portion of the shredded phyllo and shape it into a small bird's nest. Put 1/2 tablespoon of the nut mixture into the center of the "nest" and roll it up into a ball. Place into the center of a pastry-lined muffin cup. Repeat to fill the remaining cups.
Brush pastry tops with the remaining butter. Bake pastries for 25 to 35 minutes until golden brown.
HONEY SYRUP
Makes about 2 cups.
1 c. sugar
1 c. water
1 c. honey
Peel from 1 lemon
1 tbsp. lemon juice
Directions: While pastries are baking, bring all the ingredients to a boil. Simmer for 10 minutes. Strain and cool slightly.
Drizzle baked pastries with the syrup. Serve warm or chilled, or freeze pastries until ready to serve.
COOKBOOKS WITH YEAR-ROUND APPEAL
Some notable books that will be useful throughout the year:
-"The Deluxe Food Lover's Companion," by Sharon Tyler Herbst and Ron Herbst (Barron's, 794, $29.99). Now in its fifth revision, this food dictionary is more important - and expanded - than ever. No cook should be without it.
-"Gourmet Today," edited by Ruth Reichl (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 1008 pages, $40). Well, the timing was bad (released immediately prior to the magazine folding), but the book is terrific - comprehensive and legible (its first big book was notable for its impossible-to-read colored text). No pictures but plenty of words and recipes.
-"The Lee Bros. Simple Fresh Southern," by Matt Lee and Ted Lee (Clarkson Potter, 255 pages, $35). The Lee brothers are at it again with their blend of Southern recipes, wit and charm that is just as comfortable in the Midwest.
-"New American Table," by Marcus Samuelsson (John Wiley & Sons, 356 pages, $40). How does he do it? Samuelsson, executive chef of Aquavit and other restaurants in New York City, and who just finished his role as visiting chef for the state dinner at the White House, now has a third cookbook to his name (the other two are also remarkable). The first was Scandinavian in scope, the second African. Now he's traversing his adopted country, and we're the richer for it.
-"The New Portuguese Table," by David Leite (Clarkson Potter, 256 pages, $32.50). Who knew Portugal was so exciting? Leite, of the online site leitesculinaria.com, gives us a taste of the foods found today in the land of his heritage, and such foods, from Salt Cod and Shrimp Fritters to Grilled Chicken Breasts with Spicy Coconut Sauce. With gorgeous photos of the recipes and country.
RADISH BUTTER
Serves 6.
Note: This simple veggie spread is a knockout on the appetizer table. From "The Lee Bros. Simple Fresh Southern," by Matt Lee and Ted Lee.
1/2 lb. round red radishes, trimmed, at room temperature
6 tbsp. unsalted butter, completely softened, divided
1/4 tsp. kosher salt, or 1/2 tsp. Maldon salt
1/8 tsp. freshly ground white or black pepper
Sliced rye toast points, or toasted slices of French bread, or water crackers, or 2-inch celery sticks, or endive leaves or romaine heart halves
Directions:
Put the radishes in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until the radish is chopped into very fine dice, four or five (3-second) pulses.
Transfer the contents to a length of cheesecloth or a double thickness of paper towels and wring out the excess liquid.
Transfer to a medium bowl and add 4 tablespoons of butter. With a rubber spatula, cream the radish and butter together, adding more butter 1 tablespoon at a time, until the mixture comes together in a smooth, pliable mass. Transfer the mixture to a 2-cup ramekin or bowl, sprinkle the salt and pepper over the top, and serve immediately with toast points, bread, crackers, celery, endive or romaine.
The butter will keep, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to two days. Remove it from the refrigerator 15 minutes before serving to let it soften. Sprinkle salt and freshly ground pepper over the radish butter before serving.
A TASTE OF MINNESOTA
I always look forward to what our local authors and publishers have cooked up. Some offerings from this year:
-"The Bizarre Truth," by Andrew Zimmern (Broadway Books, 271 pages, $24.99). The host of the Travel Channel's "Bizarre Foods With Andrew Zimmern" tells the behind-the-scenes tale of eating his way around the world, all on camera. Raw camel kidneys, anyone?
-"Cooking From the Heart: The Hmong Kitchen in America," by Sami Scripter and Sheng Yang (University of Minnesota Press, 248 pages, $29.95). This, the first Hmong cookbook, with 100 recipes and text on Hmong life, serves as a useful reference. Its Hmong perspective comes from Yang, who was born in Laos and came to the United States as a child, where she later met Scripter.
-"Damn Good Food," by Mitch Omer and Ann Bauer (Minnesota Historical Society Press, 215 pages, $27.95). The owner of Hell's Kitchen restaurant in Minneapolis and Duluth offers 157 recipes and a mini-memoir, as told by Ann Bauer, of his earlier raucous years induced by then-undiagnosed bipolar condition. Be forewarned that the language is sometimes vulgar, even in recipes. His book signings include one Saturday at 11 a.m. at Cooks of Crocus Hill, 877 Grand Av., St. Paul. On Dec. 19, he will be at Magers & Quinn, 3038 Hennepin Av. S., from 1 to 3 p.m.
-"Drink This/ Wine Made Simple," by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl (Ballantine Books, 348 pages, $26). Longtime reviewer demystifies the world of wine. (Q and A with her at startribune.com/taste.)
-"Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day," by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois (Thomas Dunne Books, 324 pages, $27.99). The fast-bread duo has done it again. See the review in the baking story above.
-"Never Trust a Thin Cook and Other Lessons From Italy's Culinary Capital," by Eric Dregni (University of Minnesota Press, 230 pages, $22.95). A delightful chronicle of three years of eating in Italy, where the author taught. "I want to live in the place with the best food in the world," Dregni wrote. And he did.
-"The Master Cheesemakers of Wisconsin," by James Norton and Becca Dilley (University of Wisconsin Press, 192 pages, $24.95). Hot off the presses, this volume introduces us to 43 master cheesemakers and their stories. But you need to taste these cheeses yourself, so the authors have included info on tours, tasting notes and food pairings. Norton is editor of the online site heavytable.com; Dilley is a photojournalist.
-"New Vegetarian," by Robin Asbell (Chronicle Books, 137 pages, $19.95). Light, healthy dishes from the author of "The New Whole Grain Cookbook," who is a regular on the local cooking school circuit. (Q and A with her at startribune.com/taste.)
-"Petite Sweets," by Beatrice Ojakangus (Seller Publishers, 144 pages, $18.95). This slender volume from the prolific Duluth author may be one of my favorites: beautiful (with color photos), timely (bite-size desserts are all the rage) and just plain fun (individual fresh lime pies). For more, see the review above in the baking story.
-"300 Sensational Soups," by Carla Snyder and Meredith Deeds (Robert Rose, 384 pages, $24.95). Now a Minneapolis resident, Deeds has been a great addition to the local food scene. (Check out her "Big Book of Appetizers" for some seasonal inspiration.) One of my favorite soups from her book? Beef Stroganoff and Noodle Soup. Mmm.
MANGO EGG CURRY
Serves 4.
Note: You may be familiar with the huevos rancheros of Southwestern origin, but have you tried egg curry? This is a great fallback meal on weeknights, for lunch or even breakfast. From "New Vegetarian," by Robin Asbell.
1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 c. chopped onion
2 tsp. brown mustard seeds
1 tsp. whole cumin seeds
1 large jalapeno, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tbsp. chopped fresh ginger root
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1 large ripe mango, peeled and chopped
8 oz. tomato sauce
1/4 tsp. salt
1 tsp. lemon juice
4 eggs
2 c. cooked brown rice or
4 slices toast
4 sprigs cilantro, for garnish
Directions:
Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add the oil to the hot pan. Add onion, mustard seeds, cumin seeds and jalapeno, and stir. Cook until the onions are softened and slightly browned, about 5 minutes.
Add the garlic, ginger and turmeric, and cook for 2 minutes more. Add mango, tomato sauce, salt and lemon juice, and cook until thickened, about 3 minutes.
Make 4 wells in the mixture in the pan, and crack an egg into each impression. Cover the pan and cook until the whites are done and the yolks are slightly runny, 2 to 3 minutes.
Serve the curry over rice or toast, 1 egg per person, dividing the sauce among the plates. Garnish each with a cilantro sprig, if desired.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories: 303; Fat: 11 g; Sodium: 520 mg; Carbohydrates: 42 g; Saturated fat: 2 g; Calcium: 73 mg; Protein: 11 g; Cholesterol: 212 mg; Dietary fiber: 6 g
Diabetic exchanges per serving: 2 vegetable, 1 fruit, 1 bread/starch, 1 medium-fat meat, 1 fat.
MORE AMORE
There are many reasons why Italian food has been a perennial favorite -often the perennial favorite - on these shores for decades.
Most cucina Italia is healthful, with a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients. There also seems to be something in Italian food that touches our souls in some ineffable way, offering romance and intrigue, at times even transporting us to another place.
But the biggest factor, of course, is that it's just plain delicious and approachable, with enough staples to sate casual diners and a depth of regional dishes to forever intrigue the peripatetic foodie. That's why the best of this year's Italian cookbooks seem fresh and new even if the base ingredients and approaches are familiar.
"Cafe Firenze" ($29.99, Brio Press, 248 pages), for example, finds Young Turks, er, Tuscans Fabio Viviani and Jacopo Falleni offering up detailed instructions for scores of innovative dishes and cocktails (Falleni is a mixologist). Accompanying the recipes and reveries is a raft of photographs of dishes, step-by-step prep and life scenes.
Speaking of fab photos, "Cooking From Above: Italian" ($24.99, Octopus Books, 176 pages) puts Pierre Javelle's stupendous camera work front and center. He shoots it all - the final dishes, the ingredients involved, the stages of cooking - just as the title indicates, from directly above the plate or pan. Laura Zavan's recipes, while given secondary display, are lovely gems.
On a more basic level, what home cook is not forever on the lookout for weeknight recipes, tasty concoctions that can be easily wedged into a hectic lifestyle? The simple preparations in "Quick From Scratch Italian Cookbook" ($24.95, Food & Wine Books, 192 pages) are a godsend for such folks. Bonus points for the variations that come with most recipes, along with extra instructions such as "seeding zucchini" and "slicing fennel by hand."
Meanwhile, two TV icons produced some of their best work this year. Lidia Bastianich's "Lidia Cooks From the Heart of Italy" ($35, Knopf, 411 pages) finds the matriarchal PBS host journeying to lesser-known regions such as Basilicata and Le Marche in search of distinctive local recipes. One dish is actually called Poor Man's Supper, but many of these rustic recipes fit that billing.
"Mario Batali's Italian Grill" ($29.95, Ecco, 246 pages) is not just for carnivores, as the red-haired, orange-shoed wonder offers up sizable chapters on pizza, flatbreads and veggies. Along the way, he answers that always gnarly question: What to make of, or with, those teeny-tiny quail?
There are no recipes for quail or anything else in "Why Italians Love to Talk About Food" ($35, Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 449 pages), but anyone with a strong passion for Italian food will find it indispensable. It's like an encyclopedia compiled and penned by a seriously gifted writer, in this case Elena Kostioukovitch. Infused throughout is Kostioukovitch's passion for Italy and its wide-ranging cuisine; you could even call it amore.
PASTA GRATIN
Serves 6.
Note: Provola is a stringy cheese like mozzarella. From "Cooking From Above Italian," by Laura Zavan.
1 lb. ziti (tube-shaped pasta)
8 oz. mozzarella
5 oz. smoked Provola or smoked mozzarella
3 1/2 oz. Parmesan
2 1/2 c. tomato sauce
Handful of basil, divided
1 1/2 tbsp. butter, plus more to butter dish
4 to 6 tbsp. bread crumbs
1 c. ricotta
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Directions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil, then cook the pasta until tender. Drain.
Cut the mozzarella and Provola into small pieces and shred the Parmesan.
Mix the cooked pasta with tomato sauce, half the Parmesan and some basil leaves.
Butter a gratin dish, sprinkle the base with bread crumbs, pour in half the pasta mixture and cover with half the mozzarella, Provola, and crumbled ricotta. Top with remaining basil then repeat the pasta and cheese layers.
Sprinkle with bread crumbs and the remaining Parmesan and dot with butter. Season with salt and pepper.
Bake in oven for about 20 minutes until the top is crisp and golden brown.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories: 715; Fat: 27 g; Sodium: 1,610 mg; Carbohydrates: 78 g; Saturated fat: 16 g; Calcium: 805 mg; Protein: 41 g; Cholesterol: 68 mg; Dietary fiber: 6 g
Diabetic exchanges per serving: 5 bread/starch, 4 medium-fat meat, 1 1/2 fat.
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