Tasty Recipes from Recipe Wizards

Your house may soon be overrun by holiday weekend houseguests. As the host, you’ll have the dilemma: what to feed them.

You likely squared away your holiday meal menu weeks ago, but these people eat three times a day. While turkey or ham sandwiches will work for lunch, feeding a crowd at breakfast requires a different tack. We thought some recipes might help.

We turned to three experienced hostesses across North Carolina: Fran Scibelli of Fran’s Filling Station in Charlotte; Jean Martin, the owner of NOFO at the Pig in Raleigh; and Sara Foster of Foster’s Market in Chapel Hill and Durham.

It’s telling that each shared recipes for breakfast casseroles, from sweet to savory.

“They are really easy. They appeal to everybody and can be either down-home or fancy,” Scibelli says.

Scibelli often will tweak her recipe for Ham and Cheese Strata to include sauteed mushrooms and Gruyere cheese or bacon, roasted green chiles and cheddar, she said.

“That’s the beauty of something like that,” she says. Just open your refrigerator and use what’s on hand to create your own variation.

Foster says most breakfast casseroles, like the one she shared for Breakfast Bread Pudding, can be assembled beforehand and popped in the oven in the morning.

Both Foster and Martin suggested stocking up on a few prepared items from specialty food stores, a local bakery or a farmer’s market: a jar of sauce or special condiments, cookies, candy or dessert.

“People stress themselves out because they think they have to do everything themselves,” Foster says.

What’s more important, she says, is relaxing and spending time with family. To reduce stress and time in the kitchen, Foster says, order takeout or go out to eat one night. And remember that leftovers can be the best part of stress-free holiday cooking for a crowd: Transform that turkey into pot pie or chili.

And don’t forget the ham. “What can be better than ham biscuits?” Foster asks.

HAM AND CHEESE STRATA

From Fran Scibelli at Fran’s Filling Station in Charlotte.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter or as needed for baking dish

1 pound (12-14 slices) Italian bread or baguette, cut into 1/2-inch slices, preferably day-old (can be lightly toasted if fresh)

1 cup diced Serrano or Virginia ham

1 cup grated sharp white cheddar

1 cup grated Manchego or Fontina cheese

2 tablespoons minced chives or finely chopped green onion

4 roma tomatoes cut in \-inch slices

8 large eggs

4 cups milk or half-and-half

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard or 1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon kosher salt and cracked black pepper to taste

BUTTER bottom and sides of baking dish. Arrange half of bread slices in tight rows to cover bottom of dish. Sprinkle with half of ham, cheeses, and chives or green onion. Add another layer of bread and cover with remaining ham, cheese, chives or green onions. Arrange tomatoes in pattern over the top.

WHISK eggs with milk, mustard, salt and pepper in a large bowl until well combined. Pour over bread mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

PREHEAT oven to 350 degrees. Let strata sit on counter 20-25 minutes, then unwrap and bake for approximately 1 hour, until top is golden and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.

NOTE: Scibelli also makes this with sauteed mushrooms and Gruyere cheese; bacon, roasted green chiles and cheddar, or, in warmer weather, with asparagus and slightly aged Gouda cheese.

Yield: 12 servings. PER SERVING: 339 calories; 25g carbohydrate; 20g protein; 18g fat (46% of calories); 190mg cholesterol; 1g fiber; 1,090mg sodium; 6g sugar.

SWEET FRUIT-FULL BREAKFAST BREAD PUDDING

Sara Foster of Foster’s Market says this is one of her most requested recipes. The base can be made from a number of things day-old bread, dry or broken pound cake, even day-old scones and biscuits. Because this is breakfast and not dessert, it isn’t as sweet as a dessert bread pudding. We don’t add any sugar to the pudding itself, only a little to the glaze poured over the top.

Butter for baking dish

2 cups well-shaken buttermilk

2 cups half-and-half

6 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 loaf country Italian or French bread, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes, or about 6 cups any stale bread, biscuits or cake

2 tablespoons vanilla extract

2 cups fresh or frozen fruit (such as blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, pitted cherries, sliced peaches or plums; or 1 cup good-quality semisweet chocolate, cut into chunks)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2 tablespoons heavy cream

1/2 cup confectioner’s sugar, sifted

PREHEAT the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 13-by-9-inch baking pan with butter.

STIR buttermilk, half-and-half, eggs and vanilla together in a large bowl. Add bread cubes. Let them stand in the liquid for 10 to 15 minutes, until the bread has absorbed most of the liquid. Add fruit or chocolate and stir to combine. Pour bread mixture into buttered baking dish, making sure to get all the liquid out of the bowl.

CUT a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover the baking dish and grease it with butter. Place the aluminum foil, buttered side down, over the baking dish and place in the oven to bake 1 hour. Uncover and bake 15 to 20 minutes longer, until the top is golden brown and crispy.

PREPARE the buttery glaze while the pudding is baking. Whisk the butter and cream together in a small bowl. Slowly add the sifted confectioner’s sugar, whisking until smooth. Drizzle over the warm pudding. Serve warm, fresh from the oven or reheated in a 300-degree oven until warmed through.

Yield: 12 servings.

PER SERVING: 249 calories; 8g protein; 24g carbohydrate; 13g fat (47% of calories); 136mg cholesterol; 1g fiber; 242mg sodium; 9g sugar.

CHEESE PASTRY CASSEROLE

Jean Martin, the owner of NOFO at the Pig in Raleigh, says her daughters love this casserole served with ham, fresh fruit and a green salad.

1(8-roll) package crescent roll dough, such as Pillsbury

1/4 pound Monterey Jack cheese

1/4 pound Swiss cheese

1/4 pound muenster cheese

1/4 pound sharp cheddar

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, at room temperature

1 egg, beaten slightly

1/4 to 1/2 bunch fresh parsley, chopped

1 to 2 tablespoons melted butter, or more if needed

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

PREHEAT oven to 350 degrees. Unroll crescent roll dough and divide into 2 sections. Pat half the dough in the bottom of an 8-inch-square pan, completely covering bottom of the pan.

GRATE the Monterey, Swiss, muenster and cheddar cheeses. Mix with cream cheese. Mix together egg and parsley, then stir into cheese mixture, mixing well.

SPREAD the cheese mixture on top of dough in pan. Roll out rest of the dough and fit into the pan, covering the cheese mixture. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

BAKE for 30 minutes or until nicely browned on top. Cut into 6 or 9 squares.

Yield: 6 to 9 servings.

PER SERVING: 617 calories; 25g protein; 19g carbohydrate; 49g fat (70% of calories); 158mg cholesterol; 1g fiber; 800mg sodium; 5g sugar.

Your house may soon be overrun by holiday weekend houseguests. As the host, you’ll have the dilemma: what to feed them.

What do you get a cook who has everything? Well, that’s the thing about cooks. They can’t have everything, because there is always something new – especially cookbooks. Some of us read them like novels. Others use them for inspiration. A few actually cook from them. Regardless of their purpose, cookbooks are a welcome addition to any kitchen. Take a peek at some our favorites from this year.

INSPIRING TREATS FROM THE OVEN

Good things come to those who bake. After a ho-hum 2009, this season’s baking books make gift-giving – or your own list-making – a joy. Here are some of our favorites:

-”Rose’s Heavenly Cakes” by Rose Levy Berenbaum (Wiley, 498 pages, $39.95). Berenbaum has a reputation for meticulous recipes of daunting length, and this 512-page book is no exception. But, oh, you’ve rarely seen such cakes: White Gold Passion Genoise with passion fruit curd, Apple Caramel Charlotte that looks like a pale peony, Chocolate Banana Stud Cake with inventively employed chocolate chips. The more than 100 recipes run the gamut of cakedom, each with exquisite photographs and, for the faint of heart, crystal-clear instructions.

-”Petite Sweets: Bite-Size Desserts to Satisfy Every Sweet Tooth” by Beatrice Ojakangas (Sellers, 136 pages, $18.95). Duluth’s Ojakangas makes downsizing a good thing in what may be the year’s cutest cookbook. She’s miniaturized classic desserts such as Fresh Lime Pie, Fresh Ginger Carrot Cake, Bread Pudding and dozens more, lending them a new identity while leading the charge against overindulgence. The 144-page book’s photos provide presentation tips; most recipes hold to a page. She will teach classes Friday (6 p.m.) and Saturday (noon) at Byerly’s St. Louis Park, with book signings after. Cost is $15

(www.lundsandbyerlys.com).

-”Sweet and Savory Swedish Baking” by Leila Lindholm (Skyhorse, 223 pages, $29.95). Once Sweden’s female chef of the year, Lindholm presents more than 200 recipes for pies, cakes, flans, yeast breads, crackers, Scandinavian specialties and much, much more. There’s a helpful troubleshooting section, two indexes (by recipe and by ingredient) and tons of photos. It’s an impressive collection by a voice that may be new to many on this side of the pond.

-”The Flour Pot Christmas Cookie Book” by Margie & Abbey Greenberg (Running, 136 pages, $16.95). This book isn’t for beginners, but it’s inspiring in an “uber-Martha” kind of way. Fondant, royal icing and all manner of pastry bags and tips are employed in these breathtaking yet time-thieving cookies.

-”Artisan Breads Every Day,” by Peter Reinhart (Ten Speed Press, 218 pages, $30). Avid bread bakers are always waiting for Reinhart’s latest book. This one is his response to the quickie artisan bread bandwagon with 50 recipes built on time-saving tips. And a first: Reinhart does pastries. As always, there are baker’s percentages, stories and wisdom from the best.

-”My Bread: The Revolutionary No-Work, No-Knead Method” by Jim Lahey (Norton, $29.95). This is Lahey’s response to all the books that came in the wake of his no-knead bread recipe being published in 2006. It’s bread and more, as he ventures into sandwiches, with recipes for making many filling ingredients from scratch, and a chapter on what to do with stale bread.

-”Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day” by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois (St. Martin’s Press, 324 pages, $27.99). Minnesota’s five-minute bread duo are back with variations on their original theme, getting whole grains, fruits and vegetables into their master recipe, plus a whole chapter on gluten-free breads. Lots of tips and the answers to FAQs from the first book.

GREEK-STYLE HONEY-NUT PASTRIES

Makes 24.

Note: Phyllo (or filo) is available frozen in supermarkets.

1 pkg. (1 lb.) frozen phyllo dough, thawed

2/3 c. melted butter

1 c. coarsely chopped walnuts

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/8 tsp. ground cloves

1 tbsp. dry bread crumbs

Honey Syrup (recipe follows)

Directions: Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

On a working surface, make a stack of five phyllo sheets, brushing each with melted butter (use about half the butter). Cut the stack into 24 squares. Line the cavities of a 24-cup miniature muffin pan with the phyllo squares. Trim ends to form round cups. Cover with damp cloth to keep the pastry moist.

Roll up the remaining pastry and, with a sharp knife, cut into very thin shreds (about 1/16- inch thick). Divide into 24 equal portions. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside.

Mix the walnuts, cinnamon, cloves and bread crumbs in a bowl.

Take one portion of the shredded phyllo and shape it into a small bird’s nest. Put 1/2 tablespoon of the nut mixture into the center of the “nest” and roll it up into a ball. Place into the center of a pastry-lined muffin cup. Repeat to fill the remaining cups.

Brush pastry tops with the remaining butter. Bake pastries for 25 to 35 minutes until golden brown.

HONEY SYRUP

Makes about 2 cups.

1 c. sugar

1 c. water

1 c. honey

Peel from 1 lemon

1 tbsp. lemon juice

Directions: While pastries are baking, bring all the ingredients to a boil. Simmer for 10 minutes. Strain and cool slightly.

Drizzle baked pastries with the syrup. Serve warm or chilled, or freeze pastries until ready to serve.

COOKBOOKS WITH YEAR-ROUND APPEAL

Some notable books that will be useful throughout the year:

-”The Deluxe Food Lover’s Companion,” by Sharon Tyler Herbst and Ron Herbst (Barron’s, 794, $29.99). Now in its fifth revision, this food dictionary is more important – and expanded – than ever. No cook should be without it.

-”Gourmet Today,” edited by Ruth Reichl (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 1008 pages, $40). Well, the timing was bad (released immediately prior to the magazine folding), but the book is terrific – comprehensive and legible (its first big book was notable for its impossible-to-read colored text). No pictures but plenty of words and recipes.

-”The Lee Bros. Simple Fresh Southern,” by Matt Lee and Ted Lee (Clarkson Potter, 255 pages, $35). The Lee brothers are at it again with their blend of Southern recipes, wit and charm that is just as comfortable in the Midwest.

-”New American Table,” by Marcus Samuelsson (John Wiley & Sons, 356 pages, $40). How does he do it? Samuelsson, executive chef of Aquavit and other restaurants in New York City, and who just finished his role as visiting chef for the state dinner at the White House, now has a third cookbook to his name (the other two are also remarkable). The first was Scandinavian in scope, the second African. Now he’s traversing his adopted country, and we’re the richer for it.

-”The New Portuguese Table,” by David Leite (Clarkson Potter, 256 pages, $32.50). Who knew Portugal was so exciting? Leite, of the online site leitesculinaria.com, gives us a taste of the foods found today in the land of his heritage, and such foods, from Salt Cod and Shrimp Fritters to Grilled Chicken Breasts with Spicy Coconut Sauce. With gorgeous photos of the recipes and country.

RADISH BUTTER

Serves 6.

Note: This simple veggie spread is a knockout on the appetizer table. From “The Lee Bros. Simple Fresh Southern,” by Matt Lee and Ted Lee.

1/2 lb. round red radishes, trimmed, at room temperature

6 tbsp. unsalted butter, completely softened, divided

1/4 tsp. kosher salt, or 1/2 tsp. Maldon salt

1/8 tsp. freshly ground white or black pepper

Sliced rye toast points, or toasted slices of French bread, or water crackers, or 2-inch celery sticks, or endive leaves or romaine heart halves

Directions:

Put the radishes in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until the radish is chopped into very fine dice, four or five (3-second) pulses.

Transfer the contents to a length of cheesecloth or a double thickness of paper towels and wring out the excess liquid.

Transfer to a medium bowl and add 4 tablespoons of butter. With a rubber spatula, cream the radish and butter together, adding more butter 1 tablespoon at a time, until the mixture comes together in a smooth, pliable mass. Transfer the mixture to a 2-cup ramekin or bowl, sprinkle the salt and pepper over the top, and serve immediately with toast points, bread, crackers, celery, endive or romaine.

The butter will keep, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to two days. Remove it from the refrigerator 15 minutes before serving to let it soften. Sprinkle salt and freshly ground pepper over the radish butter before serving.

A TASTE OF MINNESOTA

I always look forward to what our local authors and publishers have cooked up. Some offerings from this year:

-”The Bizarre Truth,” by Andrew Zimmern (Broadway Books, 271 pages, $24.99). The host of the Travel Channel’s “Bizarre Foods With Andrew Zimmern” tells the behind-the-scenes tale of eating his way around the world, all on camera. Raw camel kidneys, anyone?

-”Cooking From the Heart: The Hmong Kitchen in America,” by Sami Scripter and Sheng Yang (University of Minnesota Press, 248 pages, $29.95). This, the first Hmong cookbook, with 100 recipes and text on Hmong life, serves as a useful reference. Its Hmong perspective comes from Yang, who was born in Laos and came to the United States as a child, where she later met Scripter.

-”Damn Good Food,” by Mitch Omer and Ann Bauer (Minnesota Historical Society Press, 215 pages, $27.95). The owner of Hell’s Kitchen restaurant in Minneapolis and Duluth offers 157 recipes and a mini-memoir, as told by Ann Bauer, of his earlier raucous years induced by then-undiagnosed bipolar condition. Be forewarned that the language is sometimes vulgar, even in recipes. His book signings include one Saturday at 11 a.m. at Cooks of Crocus Hill, 877 Grand Av., St. Paul. On Dec. 19, he will be at Magers & Quinn, 3038 Hennepin Av. S., from 1 to 3 p.m.

-”Drink This/ Wine Made Simple,” by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl (Ballantine Books, 348 pages, $26). Longtime reviewer demystifies the world of wine. (Q and A with her at startribune.com/taste.)

-”Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day,” by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois (Thomas Dunne Books, 324 pages, $27.99). The fast-bread duo has done it again. See the review in the baking story above.

-”Never Trust a Thin Cook and Other Lessons From Italy’s Culinary Capital,” by Eric Dregni (University of Minnesota Press, 230 pages, $22.95). A delightful chronicle of three years of eating in Italy, where the author taught. “I want to live in the place with the best food in the world,” Dregni wrote. And he did.

-”The Master Cheesemakers of Wisconsin,” by James Norton and Becca Dilley (University of Wisconsin Press, 192 pages, $24.95). Hot off the presses, this volume introduces us to 43 master cheesemakers and their stories. But you need to taste these cheeses yourself, so the authors have included info on tours, tasting notes and food pairings. Norton is editor of the online site heavytable.com; Dilley is a photojournalist.

-”New Vegetarian,” by Robin Asbell (Chronicle Books, 137 pages, $19.95). Light, healthy dishes from the author of “The New Whole Grain Cookbook,” who is a regular on the local cooking school circuit. (Q and A with her at startribune.com/taste.)

-”Petite Sweets,” by Beatrice Ojakangus (Seller Publishers, 144 pages, $18.95). This slender volume from the prolific Duluth author may be one of my favorites: beautiful (with color photos), timely (bite-size desserts are all the rage) and just plain fun (individual fresh lime pies). For more, see the review above in the baking story.

-”300 Sensational Soups,” by Carla Snyder and Meredith Deeds (Robert Rose, 384 pages, $24.95). Now a Minneapolis resident, Deeds has been a great addition to the local food scene. (Check out her “Big Book of Appetizers” for some seasonal inspiration.) One of my favorite soups from her book? Beef Stroganoff and Noodle Soup. Mmm.

MANGO EGG CURRY

Serves 4.

Note: You may be familiar with the huevos rancheros of Southwestern origin, but have you tried egg curry? This is a great fallback meal on weeknights, for lunch or even breakfast. From “New Vegetarian,” by Robin Asbell.

1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 c. chopped onion

2 tsp. brown mustard seeds

1 tsp. whole cumin seeds

1 large jalapeno, chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 tbsp. chopped fresh ginger root

1/2 tsp. turmeric

1 large ripe mango, peeled and chopped

8 oz. tomato sauce

1/4 tsp. salt

1 tsp. lemon juice

4 eggs

2 c. cooked brown rice or

4 slices toast

4 sprigs cilantro, for garnish

Directions:

Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add the oil to the hot pan. Add onion, mustard seeds, cumin seeds and jalapeno, and stir. Cook until the onions are softened and slightly browned, about 5 minutes.

Add the garlic, ginger and turmeric, and cook for 2 minutes more. Add mango, tomato sauce, salt and lemon juice, and cook until thickened, about 3 minutes.

Make 4 wells in the mixture in the pan, and crack an egg into each impression. Cover the pan and cook until the whites are done and the yolks are slightly runny, 2 to 3 minutes.

Serve the curry over rice or toast, 1 egg per person, dividing the sauce among the plates. Garnish each with a cilantro sprig, if desired.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories: 303; Fat: 11 g; Sodium: 520 mg; Carbohydrates: 42 g; Saturated fat: 2 g; Calcium: 73 mg; Protein: 11 g; Cholesterol: 212 mg; Dietary fiber: 6 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 2 vegetable, 1 fruit, 1 bread/starch, 1 medium-fat meat, 1 fat.

MORE AMORE

There are many reasons why Italian food has been a perennial favorite -often the perennial favorite – on these shores for decades.

Most cucina Italia is healthful, with a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients. There also seems to be something in Italian food that touches our souls in some ineffable way, offering romance and intrigue, at times even transporting us to another place.

But the biggest factor, of course, is that it’s just plain delicious and approachable, with enough staples to sate casual diners and a depth of regional dishes to forever intrigue the peripatetic foodie. That’s why the best of this year’s Italian cookbooks seem fresh and new even if the base ingredients and approaches are familiar.

“Cafe Firenze” ($29.99, Brio Press, 248 pages), for example, finds Young Turks, er, Tuscans Fabio Viviani and Jacopo Falleni offering up detailed instructions for scores of innovative dishes and cocktails (Falleni is a mixologist). Accompanying the recipes and reveries is a raft of photographs of dishes, step-by-step prep and life scenes.

Speaking of fab photos, “Cooking From Above: Italian” ($24.99, Octopus Books, 176 pages) puts Pierre Javelle’s stupendous camera work front and center. He shoots it all – the final dishes, the ingredients involved, the stages of cooking – just as the title indicates, from directly above the plate or pan. Laura Zavan’s recipes, while given secondary display, are lovely gems.

On a more basic level, what home cook is not forever on the lookout for weeknight recipes, tasty concoctions that can be easily wedged into a hectic lifestyle? The simple preparations in “Quick From Scratch Italian Cookbook” ($24.95, Food & Wine Books, 192 pages) are a godsend for such folks. Bonus points for the variations that come with most recipes, along with extra instructions such as “seeding zucchini” and “slicing fennel by hand.”

Meanwhile, two TV icons produced some of their best work this year. Lidia Bastianich’s “Lidia Cooks From the Heart of Italy” ($35, Knopf, 411 pages) finds the matriarchal PBS host journeying to lesser-known regions such as Basilicata and Le Marche in search of distinctive local recipes. One dish is actually called Poor Man’s Supper, but many of these rustic recipes fit that billing.

“Mario Batali’s Italian Grill” ($29.95, Ecco, 246 pages) is not just for carnivores, as the red-haired, orange-shoed wonder offers up sizable chapters on pizza, flatbreads and veggies. Along the way, he answers that always gnarly question: What to make of, or with, those teeny-tiny quail?

There are no recipes for quail or anything else in “Why Italians Love to Talk About Food” ($35, Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 449 pages), but anyone with a strong passion for Italian food will find it indispensable. It’s like an encyclopedia compiled and penned by a seriously gifted writer, in this case Elena Kostioukovitch. Infused throughout is Kostioukovitch’s passion for Italy and its wide-ranging cuisine; you could even call it amore.

PASTA GRATIN

Serves 6.

Note: Provola is a stringy cheese like mozzarella. From “Cooking From Above Italian,” by Laura Zavan.

1 lb. ziti (tube-shaped pasta)

8 oz. mozzarella

5 oz. smoked Provola or smoked mozzarella

3 1/2 oz. Parmesan

2 1/2 c. tomato sauce

Handful of basil, divided

1 1/2 tbsp. butter, plus more to butter dish

4 to 6 tbsp. bread crumbs

1 c. ricotta

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil, then cook the pasta until tender. Drain.

Cut the mozzarella and Provola into small pieces and shred the Parmesan.

Mix the cooked pasta with tomato sauce, half the Parmesan and some basil leaves.

Butter a gratin dish, sprinkle the base with bread crumbs, pour in half the pasta mixture and cover with half the mozzarella, Provola, and crumbled ricotta. Top with remaining basil then repeat the pasta and cheese layers.

Sprinkle with bread crumbs and the remaining Parmesan and dot with butter. Season with salt and pepper.

Bake in oven for about 20 minutes until the top is crisp and golden brown.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories: 715; Fat: 27 g; Sodium: 1,610 mg; Carbohydrates: 78 g; Saturated fat: 16 g; Calcium: 805 mg; Protein: 41 g; Cholesterol: 68 mg; Dietary fiber: 6 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 5 bread/starch, 4 medium-fat meat, 1 1/2 fat.

What do you get a cook who has everything? Well, that’s the thing about cooks. They can’t have everything, because there is always something new – especially cookbooks. Some of us read them like novels. Others use them for inspiration. A few actually cook from them. Regardless of their purpose, cookbooks are a welcome addition to any kitchen. Take a peek at some our favorites from this year.

INSPIRING TREATS FROM THE OVEN

Good things come to those who bake. After a ho-hum 2009, this season’s baking books make gift-giving – or your own list-making – a joy. Here are some of our favorites:

-”Rose’s Heavenly Cakes” by Rose Levy Berenbaum (Wiley, 498 pages, $39.95). Berenbaum has a reputation for meticulous recipes of daunting length, and this 512-page book is no exception. But, oh, you’ve rarely seen such cakes: White Gold Passion Genoise with passion fruit curd, Apple Caramel Charlotte that looks like a pale peony, Chocolate Banana Stud Cake with inventively employed chocolate chips. The more than 100 recipes run the gamut of cakedom, each with exquisite photographs and, for the faint of heart, crystal-clear instructions.

-”Petite Sweets: Bite-Size Desserts to Satisfy Every Sweet Tooth” by Beatrice Ojakangas (Sellers, 136 pages, $18.95). Duluth’s Ojakangas makes downsizing a good thing in what may be the year’s cutest cookbook. She’s miniaturized classic desserts such as Fresh Lime Pie, Fresh Ginger Carrot Cake, Bread Pudding and dozens more, lending them a new identity while leading the charge against overindulgence. The 144-page book’s photos provide presentation tips; most recipes hold to a page. She will teach classes Friday (6 p.m.) and Saturday (noon) at Byerly’s St. Louis Park, with book signings after. Cost is $15

(www.lundsandbyerlys.com).

-”Sweet and Savory Swedish Baking” by Leila Lindholm (Skyhorse, 223 pages, $29.95). Once Sweden’s female chef of the year, Lindholm presents more than 200 recipes for pies, cakes, flans, yeast breads, crackers, Scandinavian specialties and much, much more. There’s a helpful troubleshooting section, two indexes (by recipe and by ingredient) and tons of photos. It’s an impressive collection by a voice that may be new to many on this side of the pond.

-”The Flour Pot Christmas Cookie Book” by Margie & Abbey Greenberg (Running, 136 pages, $16.95). This book isn’t for beginners, but it’s inspiring in an “uber-Martha” kind of way. Fondant, royal icing and all manner of pastry bags and tips are employed in these breathtaking yet time-thieving cookies.

-”Artisan Breads Every Day,” by Peter Reinhart (Ten Speed Press, 218 pages, $30). Avid bread bakers are always waiting for Reinhart’s latest book. This one is his response to the quickie artisan bread bandwagon with 50 recipes built on time-saving tips. And a first: Reinhart does pastries. As always, there are baker’s percentages, stories and wisdom from the best.

-”My Bread: The Revolutionary No-Work, No-Knead Method” by Jim Lahey (Norton, $29.95). This is Lahey’s response to all the books that came in the wake of his no-knead bread recipe being published in 2006. It’s bread and more, as he ventures into sandwiches, with recipes for making many filling ingredients from scratch, and a chapter on what to do with stale bread.

-”Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day” by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois (St. Martin’s Press, 324 pages, $27.99). Minnesota’s five-minute bread duo are back with variations on their original theme, getting whole grains, fruits and vegetables into their master recipe, plus a whole chapter on gluten-free breads. Lots of tips and the answers to FAQs from the first book.

GREEK-STYLE HONEY-NUT PASTRIES

Makes 24.

Note: Phyllo (or filo) is available frozen in supermarkets.

1 pkg. (1 lb.) frozen phyllo dough, thawed

2/3 c. melted butter

1 c. coarsely chopped walnuts

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/8 tsp. ground cloves

1 tbsp. dry bread crumbs

Honey Syrup (recipe follows)

Directions: Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

On a working surface, make a stack of five phyllo sheets, brushing each with melted butter (use about half the butter). Cut the stack into 24 squares. Line the cavities of a 24-cup miniature muffin pan with the phyllo squares. Trim ends to form round cups. Cover with damp cloth to keep the pastry moist.

Roll up the remaining pastry and, with a sharp knife, cut into very thin shreds (about 1/16- inch thick). Divide into 24 equal portions. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside.

Mix the walnuts, cinnamon, cloves and bread crumbs in a bowl.

Take one portion of the shredded phyllo and shape it into a small bird’s nest. Put 1/2 tablespoon of the nut mixture into the center of the “nest” and roll it up into a ball. Place into the center of a pastry-lined muffin cup. Repeat to fill the remaining cups.

Brush pastry tops with the remaining butter. Bake pastries for 25 to 35 minutes until golden brown.

HONEY SYRUP

Makes about 2 cups.

1 c. sugar

1 c. water

1 c. honey

Peel from 1 lemon

1 tbsp. lemon juice

Directions: While pastries are baking, bring all the ingredients to a boil. Simmer for 10 minutes. Strain and cool slightly.

Drizzle baked pastries with the syrup. Serve warm or chilled, or freeze pastries until ready to serve.

COOKBOOKS WITH YEAR-ROUND APPEAL

Some notable books that will be useful throughout the year:

-”The Deluxe Food Lover’s Companion,” by Sharon Tyler Herbst and Ron Herbst (Barron’s, 794, $29.99). Now in its fifth revision, this food dictionary is more important – and expanded – than ever. No cook should be without it.

-”Gourmet Today,” edited by Ruth Reichl (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 1008 pages, $40). Well, the timing was bad (released immediately prior to the magazine folding), but the book is terrific – comprehensive and legible (its first big book was notable for its impossible-to-read colored text). No pictures but plenty of words and recipes.

-”The Lee Bros. Simple Fresh Southern,” by Matt Lee and Ted Lee (Clarkson Potter, 255 pages, $35). The Lee brothers are at it again with their blend of Southern recipes, wit and charm that is just as comfortable in the Midwest.

-”New American Table,” by Marcus Samuelsson (John Wiley & Sons, 356 pages, $40). How does he do it? Samuelsson, executive chef of Aquavit and other restaurants in New York City, and who just finished his role as visiting chef for the state dinner at the White House, now has a third cookbook to his name (the other two are also remarkable). The first was Scandinavian in scope, the second African. Now he’s traversing his adopted country, and we’re the richer for it.

-”The New Portuguese Table,” by David Leite (Clarkson Potter, 256 pages, $32.50). Who knew Portugal was so exciting? Leite, of the online site leitesculinaria.com, gives us a taste of the foods found today in the land of his heritage, and such foods, from Salt Cod and Shrimp Fritters to Grilled Chicken Breasts with Spicy Coconut Sauce. With gorgeous photos of the recipes and country.

RADISH BUTTER

Serves 6.

Note: This simple veggie spread is a knockout on the appetizer table. From “The Lee Bros. Simple Fresh Southern,” by Matt Lee and Ted Lee.

lb. round red radishes, trimmed, at room temperature

6 tbsp. unsalted butter, completely softened, divided

tsp. kosher salt, or 1/2 tsp. Maldon salt

1/8 tsp. freshly ground white or black pepper

Sliced rye toast points, or toasted slices of French bread, or water crackers, or 2-inch celery sticks, or endive leaves or romaine heart halves

Directions:

Put the radishes in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until the radish is chopped into very fine dice, four or five (3-second) pulses.

Transfer the contents to a length of cheesecloth or a double thickness of paper towels and wring out the excess liquid.

Transfer to a medium bowl and add 4 tablespoons of butter. With a rubber spatula, cream the radish and butter together, adding more butter 1 tablespoon at a time, until the mixture comes together in a smooth, pliable mass. Transfer the mixture to a 2-cup ramekin or bowl, sprinkle the salt and pepper over the top, and serve immediately with toast points, bread, crackers, celery, endive or romaine.

The butter will keep, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to two days. Remove it from the refrigerator 15 minutes before serving to let it soften. Sprinkle salt and freshly ground pepper over the radish butter before serving.

A TASTE OF MINNESOTA

I always look forward to what our local authors and publishers have cooked up. Some offerings from this year:

-”The Bizarre Truth,” by Andrew Zimmern (Broadway Books, 271 pages, $24.99). The host of the Travel Channel’s “Bizarre Foods With Andrew Zimmern” tells the behind-the-scenes tale of eating his way around the world, all on camera. Raw camel kidneys, anyone?

-”Cooking From the Heart: The Hmong Kitchen in America,” by Sami Scripter and Sheng Yang (University of Minnesota Press, 248 pages, $29.95). This, the first Hmong cookbook, with 100 recipes and text on Hmong life, serves as a useful reference. Its Hmong perspective comes from Yang, who was born in Laos and came to the United States as a child, where she later met Scripter.

-”Damn Good Food,” by Mitch Omer and Ann Bauer (Minnesota Historical Society Press, 215 pages, $27.95). The owner of Hell’s Kitchen restaurant in Minneapolis and Duluth offers 157 recipes and a mini-memoir, as told by Ann Bauer, of his earlier raucous years induced by then-undiagnosed bipolar condition. Be forewarned that the language is sometimes vulgar, even in recipes. His book signings include one Saturday at 11 a.m. at Cooks of Crocus Hill, 877 Grand Av., St. Paul. On Dec. 19, he will be at Magers & Quinn, 3038 Hennepin Av. S., from 1 to 3 p.m.

-”Drink This/ Wine Made Simple,” by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl (Ballantine Books, 348 pages, $26). Longtime reviewer demystifies the world of wine. (Q and A with her at startribune.com/taste.)

-”Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day,” by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois (Thomas Dunne Books, 324 pages, $27.99). The fast-bread duo has done it again. See the review in the baking story above.

-”Never Trust a Thin Cook and Other Lessons From Italy’s Culinary Capital,” by Eric Dregni (University of Minnesota Press, 230 pages, $22.95). A delightful chronicle of three years of eating in Italy, where the author taught. “I want to live in the place with the best food in the world,” Dregni wrote. And he did.

-”The Master Cheesemakers of Wisconsin,” by James Norton and Becca Dilley (University of Wisconsin Press, 192 pages, $24.95). Hot off the presses, this volume introduces us to 43 master cheesemakers and their stories. But you need to taste these cheeses yourself, so the authors have included info on tours, tasting notes and food pairings. Norton is editor of the online site heavytable.com; Dilley is a photojournalist.

-”New Vegetarian,” by Robin Asbell (Chronicle Books, 137 pages, $19.95). Light, healthy dishes from the author of “The New Whole Grain Cookbook,” who is a regular on the local cooking school circuit. (Q and A with her at startribune.com/taste.)

-”Petite Sweets,” by Beatrice Ojakangus (Seller Publishers, 144 pages, $18.95). This slender volume from the prolific Duluth author may be one of my favorites: beautiful (with color photos), timely (bite-size desserts are all the rage) and just plain fun (individual fresh lime pies). For more, see the review above in the baking story.

-”300 Sensational Soups,” by Carla Snyder and Meredith Deeds (Robert Rose, 384 pages, $24.95). Now a Minneapolis resident, Deeds has been a great addition to the local food scene. (Check out her “Big Book of Appetizers” for some seasonal inspiration.) One of my favorite soups from her book? Beef Stroganoff and Noodle Soup. Mmm.

MANGO EGG CURRY

Serves 4.

Note: You may be familiar with the huevos rancheros of Southwestern origin, but have you tried egg curry? This is a great fallback meal on weeknights, for lunch or even breakfast. From “New Vegetarian,” by Robin Asbell.

1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 c. chopped onion

2 tsp. brown mustard seeds

1 tsp. whole cumin seeds

1 large jalapeno, chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 tbsp. chopped fresh ginger root

1/2 tsp. turmeric

1 large ripe mango, peeled and chopped

8 oz. tomato sauce

1/4 tsp. salt

1 tsp. lemon juice

4 eggs

2 c. cooked brown rice or

4 slices toast

4 sprigs cilantro, for garnish

Directions:

Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add the oil to the hot pan. Add onion, mustard seeds, cumin seeds and jalapeno, and stir. Cook until the onions are softened and slightly browned, about 5 minutes.

Add the garlic, ginger and turmeric, and cook for 2 minutes more. Add mango, tomato sauce, salt and lemon juice, and cook until thickened, about 3 minutes.

Make 4 wells in the mixture in the pan, and crack an egg into each impression. Cover the pan and cook until the whites are done and the yolks are slightly runny, 2 to 3 minutes.

Serve the curry over rice or toast, 1 egg per person, dividing the sauce among the plates. Garnish each with a cilantro sprig, if desired.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories: 303; Fat: 11 g; Sodium: 520 mg; Carbohydrates: 42 g; Saturated fat: 2 g; Calcium: 73 mg; Protein: 11 g; Cholesterol: 212 mg; Dietary fiber: 6 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 2 vegetable, 1 fruit, 1 bread/starch, 1 medium-fat meat, 1 fat.

MORE AMORE

There are many reasons why Italian food has been a perennial favorite -often the perennial favorite – on these shores for decades.

Most cucina Italia is healthful, with a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients. There also seems to be something in Italian food that touches our souls in some ineffable way, offering romance and intrigue, at times even transporting us to another place.

But the biggest factor, of course, is that it’s just plain delicious and approachable, with enough staples to sate casual diners and a depth of regional dishes to forever intrigue the peripatetic foodie. That’s why the best of this year’s Italian cookbooks seem fresh and new even if the base ingredients and approaches are familiar.

“Cafe Firenze” ($29.99, Brio Press, 248 pages), for example, finds Young Turks, er, Tuscans Fabio Viviani and Jacopo Falleni offering up detailed instructions for scores of innovative dishes and cocktails (Falleni is a mixologist). Accompanying the recipes and reveries is a raft of photographs of dishes, step-by-step prep and life scenes.

Speaking of fab photos, “Cooking From Above: Italian” ($24.99, Octopus Books, 176 pages) puts Pierre Javelle’s stupendous camera work front and center. He shoots it all – the final dishes, the ingredients involved, the stages of cooking – just as the title indicates, from directly above the plate or pan. Laura Zavan’s recipes, while given secondary display, are lovely gems.

On a more basic level, what home cook is not forever on the lookout for weeknight recipes, tasty concoctions that can be easily wedged into a hectic lifestyle? The simple preparations in “Quick From Scratch Italian Cookbook” ($24.95, Food & Wine Books, 192 pages) are a godsend for such folks. Bonus points for the variations that come with most recipes, along with extra instructions such as “seeding zucchini” and “slicing fennel by hand.”

Meanwhile, two TV icons produced some of their best work this year. Lidia Bastianich’s “Lidia Cooks From the Heart of Italy” ($35, Knopf, 411 pages) finds the matriarchal PBS host journeying to lesser-known regions such as Basilicata and Le Marche in search of distinctive local recipes. One dish is actually called Poor Man’s Supper, but many of these rustic recipes fit that billing.

“Mario Batali’s Italian Grill” ($29.95, Ecco, 246 pages) is not just for carnivores, as the red-haired, orange-shoed wonder offers up sizable chapters on pizza, flatbreads and veggies. Along the way, he answers that always gnarly question: What to make of, or with, those teeny-tiny quail?

There are no recipes for quail or anything else in “Why Italians Love to Talk About Food” ($35, Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 449 pages), but anyone with a strong passion for Italian food will find it indispensable. It’s like an encyclopedia compiled and penned by a seriously gifted writer, in this case Elena Kostioukovitch. Infused throughout is Kostioukovitch’s passion for Italy and its wide-ranging cuisine; you could even call it amore.

PASTA GRATIN

Serves 6.

Note: Provola is a stringy cheese like mozzarella. From “Cooking From Above Italian,” by Laura Zavan.

1 lb. ziti (tube-shaped pasta)

8 oz. mozzarella

5 oz. smoked Provola or smoked mozzarella

3 1/2 oz. Parmesan

2 1/2 c. tomato sauce

Handful of basil, divided

1 1/2 tbsp. butter, plus more to butter dish

4 to 6 tbsp. bread crumbs

1 c. ricotta

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil, then cook the pasta until tender. Drain.

Cut the mozzarella and Provola into small pieces and shred the Parmesan.

Mix the cooked pasta with tomato sauce, half the Parmesan and some basil leaves.

Butter a gratin dish, sprinkle the base with bread crumbs, pour in half the pasta mixture and cover with half the mozzarella, Provola, and crumbled ricotta. Top with remaining basil then repeat the pasta and cheese layers.

Sprinkle with bread crumbs and the remaining Parmesan and dot with butter. Season with salt and pepper.

Bake in oven for about 20 minutes until the top is crisp and golden brown.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories: 715; Fat: 27 g; Sodium: 1,610 mg; Carbohydrates: 78 g; Saturated fat: 16 g; Calcium: 805 mg; Protein: 41 g; Cholesterol: 68 mg; Dietary fiber: 6 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 5 bread/starch, 4 medium-fat meat, 1 1/2 fat.

Gale Gand, she of the Food Network’s “Sweet Dreams,” the six cookbooks and the respected role as pastry chef/co-owner of Chicago’s top-rated Tru, worked her way through art school with restaurant jobs.

The surprise is that she wasn’t cooking, she was singing, as a strolling balladeer. “I’d put on my bustier, belt out folk songs and be ignored by a dining room full of strangers,” she said with a laugh. “No wonder I can do TV.”

Now the energetic Gand is back at it with her seventh title: “Gale Gand’s Brunch!” (Clarkson Potter, $27.50), putting her classics-with-a-twist touch on the breakfast-lunch hybrid. In a recent phone conversation, the busy working mom discussed brunch’s rising star, the brunch-dessert connection and the benefits of a good ready-made pie crust.

Q. So, in all that spare time I’m sure you have, you decide to write a brunch cookbook?

A. I have three kids. Two of my kids are twins, and after the twins were born, I still wanted to have fabulous dinner parties. I mean, that’s what people expect from me, the chef, especially since I had my kitchen redone on HGTV (laughs). I realized that I couldn’t do the four-hour dinner party, but I still wanted to have friends over.

That’s when I realized I could do brunch. It was shorter and there’s lots of stuff for kids to eat. As a chef, I missed breakfast a lot, and I really missed the food. I would often make breakfast dinner. It’s easy, it’s not expensive and it’s fast. I wrote in the book that you can make an omelet faster than the time it takes to read the instructions to make an omelet. I also feel like breakfast is becoming the new dinner. It’s the new family gathering meal. People might not be able to always gather at the dinner table, but they still want that togetherness. They still need that.

Q. What’s the pastry chef-brunch connection?

A. The ingredients are somewhat androgynous. You know, is it a bread pudding, or is it a strata? Is it dessert, or is it breakfast? They’re almost like fraternal twins, dessert and brunch. There’s a relationship there. I also love how flexible brunch is. It could be a farro salad, or cold salmon, or potstickers. Yet it still includes pastries, things like muffins and scones.

And beverages. I always make up some signature beverage for a party, usually sparkling-based, maybe cranberry and cava, or Pimm’s and prosecco. They usually start with the same letter, that always reads well on a menu (laughs). That way you’re not making six kinds of cocktails, you’ve already garnished your glasses with whatever you’re serving, and all you’re doing is pouring.

Q. You’re talking to a lapsed Lutheran. Do you think you can sell me on the virtues of fried matzoh?

A. If you don’t grow up with it, I’m not sure how it will fare outside in the real world. To me they’re a part of the Sunday breakfast rotation, along with apple crepes and waffles. It’s a seasonal dish, something that happens after Passover because you have all this leftover matzoh. It’s great because kids can make it. It’s basically French toast made with matzoh. We pour loads of syrup over it. I’m Jewish but we serve it with bacon. Jews love bacon; it’s crazy (laughs).

Q. I’m going to try and get past my doughnut-frying anxiety and take a shot at your cinnamon-sugar doughnuts. Is it all that hot oil that makes me nervous?

A. I re-use oil. I keep two bottles. One is for savory things that might have something like onions in it. That’s not an oil that I’d use with my ricotta doughnuts. Then I keep a separate oil for sweets. I’ll use the same oil four or five times. The trick is not to overheat it, which is why I use a thermometer. Keep it at 325 or 350 degrees, which is the right temperature for frying, and it will last a long time.

Use a pan that’s twice as deep as the oil, so there isn’t a lot of stuff floating right at the top of the pan. When you’ve finished frying, let the oil cool on the back of the stove to keep it away from the kids, then strain it and funnel it back into the bottle.

Q. You don’t shy away from incorporating ready-made ingredients – store-bought puff pastry, for example – into your recipes. Why?

A. It’s about being realistic. It’s my campaign to get people cooking in their kitchens, no matter what. If making pie dough is what’s keeping you from baking a pie, then by all means buy the dough from someone who is good at it. I’m not a purist or a stickler, and most chefs aren’t, either.

Just read the ingredients label to make sure that it’s made with real food, because the rewards of baking a pie – the kids helping out, the great smell filling the house, the comfort of having a pie on the counter – are tenfold. I want people to build up successes in the kitchen, to say, ‘I can do that.’

ALMOND CIABATTA FRENCH TOAST

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: “At Osteria di Tramonto, the Italian restaurant I own with my partners, we serve ciabatta, an Italian bread that has nice, big open holes,” writes Gand. “It’s delicious fresh, but it really is not the same the next day . . . so, what to do with the leftovers? We tried a bread pudding, but it was too firm for my taste. Then I tried making French toast with it – and it’s divine.” From “Gale Gand’s Brunch!” by Gale Gand (Clarkson Potter, $27.50).

3 eggs

2 pinches salt

3 tbsp. sugar

1/4 tsp. vanilla extract

1/4 tsp. almond extract

1 1/4 c. whole milk

1/4 c. heavy cream

8 (1-in.) slices round ciabatta

Unsalted butter, for cooking

1 c. sliced almonds

Directions

Heat a griddle over medium-low heat. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs well. Whisk in salt, sugar, vanilla extract and almond extract. Gradually whisk in milk and cream. Pour mixture into a shallow baking dish.

Working in batches if necessary, place bread in dish and let soak for 3 minutes, then turn bread over and soak other side an additional 3 minutes.

Butter griddle and let butter bubble. Just before placing soaked bread slices on griddle, place almonds in a single layer (but fairly densely packed) on griddle, forming an area the size and shape of a bread slice. Press one side of bread into almonds on griddle and cook until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Flip bread and cook other side until speckled golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Serve hot.

CARAMELIZED-APPLE CREPES

Serves 4.

Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance. From “Gale Gand’s Brunch!” by Gale Gand (Clarkson Potter, $27.50).

2 eggs

1/2 c. whole milk

1/4 tsp. salt

9 tsp. sugar, divided

1/2 c. flour

4 tbsp. unsalted butter, divided

2 Granny Smith or Honeycrisp apples, peeled, cored and cut into very thin horizontal slices

4 lemon wedges

Powdered sugar, for dusting

Directions

In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs and milk. Whisk in salt, 1 teaspoon sugar and flour. Set aside for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 200 degrees. In a nonstick 8- or 10-inch skillet, melt about 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons sugar over melted butter and cook for about 1 minute to caramelize sugar; it should be amber colored. Add 1/4 of the apple slices to pan and cook them on one side until golden brown on edges, about 1 to 2 minutes.

Pour or ladle 1/4 of batter (about 1/4 cup) over apple slices. Lift and swirl pan so batter coats bottom. Let cook until slightly browned on underside, 1 to 2 minutes.

Use a spatula or your fingers to flip crepe, and cook until other side is slightly browned, about 1 minute. Don’t worry if batter pulls away from apple a bit. Transfer crepe to a platter and keep in warm oven. Repeat process, starting with butter, to prepare 3 more crepes.

Serve with a lemon wedge (for sprinkling lemon juice over crepes) and a dusting of powdered sugar.

BACON-GREEN ONION SCONES

Makes 1 dozen scones.

Note: From “Gale Gand’s Brunch!”

3 3/4 c. flour, plus extra for work surface

3 tbsp. baking powder

1/2 c. grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for sprinkling

1 tsp. paprika

1 tsp. freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley

1/4 tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1/2 c. (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 -in. pieces

3 strips bacon, cooked and chopped

3/4 c. sliced green onions, white and green parts

1 1/4 c. whole milk, plus more for brushing

Directions

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment on low speed (or working by hand in a large bowl), combine flour, baking powder, Parmesan cheese, paprika, parsley, salt and pepper.

With mixer running, add cold butter and mix until mixture is coarse and sandy (you should still be able to see small lumps of butter). Add bacon and green onions and mix thoroughly. Add milk and mix until almost combined; do not overmix.

Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead dough 10 times, then divide dough in half and shape into 2 balls.

Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll balls out to 1-inch thick disks. Use a knife to cut each disk into 6 triangles. Brush tops with milk and sprinkle liberally with Parmesan cheese.

Transfer to ungreased baking sheets and bake 15 to 20 minutes, until light golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool on baking sheet. Serve warm or at room temperature, within a few hours of baking.

CORN AND PARMESAN FRITTERS

Makes 14 fritters.

Note: “These fritters do sweet corn proud and are great paired with fried eggs,” writes author Gale Gand. “Omit the bacon if you want a vegetarian version.” From “Gale Gand’s Brunch!”

2 tbsp. olive oil

1/4 medium onion, diced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 large egg

1/2 c. whole milk

1/4 c. yellow cornmeal

1/4 c. flour

1/4 c. grated Parmesan cheese

1/8 tsp. baking powder

1/4 tsp. salt

1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

2 c. corn, fresh, frozen or canned (drained)

Canola oil, for frying

Salsa, sour cream and chopped cooked bacon, for serving

Directions

In a nonstick saute pan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook until it is almost translucent, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 1 more minute.

Using a slotted spoon, remove onion and garlic from pan, discarding vegetables and reserving oil in pan.

In a mixing bowl, beat egg and milk together with a fork. Add cornmeal, flour, Parmesan cheese, baking powder, salt and pepper and stir to blend. Stir in corn.

Add 1 tablespoon canola oil to oil remaining in saute pan and heat over medium heat.

Spoon fritter batter into pan to make as many 2 1/2-inch pancakes as will fit comfortably. Let cook until well-done on one side, 3 to 4 minutes.

Flip fritters and cook on other side until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Repeat until all batter is gone, adding more oil if needed.

Arrange fritters on a serving plate and serve warm, topped with salsa, a small dollop of sour cream and chopped bacon.

FRIED MATZOH

Serves 4.

Note: “Some people prefer this as a savory dish made with garlic or onions,” writes author Gale Gand. “Some eat it only with strawberry jam or maple syrup. I’m in the maple syrup camp. This is a dish that kids can easily help make – the first step is breaking all the matzoh crackers into pieces.” From “Gale Gand’s Brunch!”

4 sheets matzoh, preferably unsalted

4 eggs

1/4 tsp. salt

5 grinds freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp. unsalted butter

Maple syrup, for serving

Directions

Break matzoh sheets into pieces about the size of saltine crackers or smaller (irregular shapes are fine), and place them in a large bowl. Pour enough water over pieces to cover them and let soak 10 minutes while you prepare rest of ingredients.

In a small bowl, beat together eggs, 2 teaspoons water, salt and pepper with a fork. Place your hand, fingers stretched out wide, over broken matzoh pieces and hold them in bowl while you tip the bowl to let the excess water drain out; press on matzoh to squeeze out some of the water. Add egg mixture to matzoh and use a fork to stir it in.

In a frying pan over medium heat, melt butter until it foams. Add matzoh mixture and cook it on one side until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Then break up mixture into 1-inch pieces, stir pieces to cook them on the other side, and cook until they are done all the way through, 5 to 10 more minutes.

Spoon onto plates and serve hot, with maple syrup.