"Broth occupies an intermediate position between stock and soup," according to the "Oxford Companion to Food," which notes that broth can be eaten as is, whereas a stock would normally be consumed only as an ingredient in something more complex.

But what's in the array of cartons on supermarket shelves? And do they all taste alike? Well, the broths and stocks from our survey range in color from lemon-yellow to auburn. The taste? It varied, influenced by the ingredients in addition to the obvious broths used in their creation. Which is why we zeroed in on a few interesting ingredients we found on the labels, that is the "Who knew," included below. Our rating is based on a scale of 1 to 9, with 5 being average.

Swanson 100 Percent Natural Chicken Broth (5.6 points; $3.45 for 32 ounces; 11 cents per ounce): "Aroma of chicken and butter, salt and spice aftertaste." "Not much chicken flavor, bland but would be a decent base." "Light poached chicken flavor; would buy." "Fragrant, almost floral, herbal; pleasant light meaty flavor." Who knew: Sugar, dehydrated onions, yeast extract, chicken fat, carrots, celery, onions

Progresso 100 Percent Natural Chicken Broth (5.6 points; $3.29 for 32 ounces; 10 cents per ounce): "Tastes of carrots and celery more than chicken, good flavor though." "Herbs and salt and no sense of chicken." "Good flavor. Nice chicken, not too salty." "Sharp almost citrus hints; I like it." Who knew: Sugar, natural flavor, carrot, onion, celery, green bell pepper

Kitchen Basics Chicken Stock (4.6 points; $3.69 for 32 ounces; 12 cents per ounce): "Herbal, hint of chicken liver, sweet herbal taste." "Peppery, poached chicken. Carrots, touch of sweetness." "Harsh, acid." "Smoky overtones, chicken light." Who knew: Honey, vegetable stocks (carrot, onion, mushroom, celery), bay (sic), thyme, pepper

O Organics Chicken Broth (4.2 points; $3.29 for 32 ounces; 10 cents per ounce): "Fair meaty aroma, onion flavors, no chicken." "Roast chicken, strong onion-celery flavor, overwhelming." "Herbal smell, some chicken." "Odd flavor; can't figure out what it is." Who knew: Organic vegetable stock (organic carrot, organic onion, organic celery, sea salt, mushroom extract), organic evaporated cane juice, yeast extract, organic spice

Also tasted

Whole Foods 365 Organic Chicken Broth (4 points; $1.99 for 32 ounces; 6 cents per ounce): "Reminds me of Lipton's." "Thin no richness to flavor." "Tastes of celery and onions." Who knew: Organic chicken fat, organic evaporated cane juice, organic onion powder, organic garlic powder, organic cornstarch, organic tumeric (sic), organic spices, organic carrot powder

Pacific Natural Foods Organic Free Range Chicken Broth (4 points; $3.39 for 32 ounces; 11 cents per ounce): "Roasted chicken; strange floral sweet flavor." "Burnt taste, unpleasant." "Not overly salty, not much chicken flavor." Who knew: Evaporated cane juice, organic onion powder, turmeric, organic flavor

Swanson Chicken Stock (2.8 points; $3.69 for 26 ounces; 14 cents per ounce): "Taste of packaged spice mix." "Taste of vegetables overpowering." "No chicken flavor." "Less salty." Who knew: Carrots, cabbage, onions, celery, celery leaves, salt, parsley

The results: A first-place tie between Swanson and Progresso.

Cook time: 3 hours, 15 minutes

Serves: 6

This recipe, from chef Tom Colicchio, is courtesy of Food & Wine magazine. Flanken-style short ribs are cut across the bones instead of parallel to them.

Note: The prep time does not include the overnight marinate time for the short ribs.

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons canola oil

6 flanken-style short ribs with bones, cut 2 inches thick (about 4 pounds); see note above

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 carrots, sliced

3 celery ribs, sliced

3 garlic cloves, thickly sliced

One 750-ml bottle dry red wine, such as cabernet sauvignon

4 thyme sprigs

3 cups chicken stock

INSTRUCTIONS

In a large skillet, heat the oil. Season the ribs with salt and pepper. Add them to the skillet and cook over moderate heat, turning once, until browned and crusty, about 18 minutes. Transfer the ribs to a shallow baking dish in a single layer.

Add the onion, carrots, celery and garlic to the skillet and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until very soft and lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Add the wine and thyme sprigs and bring to a boil over high heat. Pour the hot marinade over the ribs and let cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight, turning the ribs once.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Transfer the ribs and marinade to a large, enameled cast-iron casserole. Place on cook top, add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Cover and cook in the lower third of the oven for 11/2 hours, until the meat is tender but not falling apart. Uncover and braise for 45 minutes longer, turning the ribs once or twice, until the sauce is reduced by about half and the meat is very tender.

Transfer the meat to a clean, shallow baking dish, discarding the bones as they fall off. Strain the sauce into a heatproof measuring cup and skim off as much fat as possible. Pour the sauce over the meat; there should be about 2 cups. (At this point, you may cover and refrigerate the meat up to 2 days.)

Preheat the broiler. Broil the meat, turning once or twice, until glazed and sizzling, about 10 minutes. Transfer the meat to plates, spoon the sauce on top and serve.

Per serving using low sodium chicken broth: 406 cal.; 27 g pro.; 10 g carb.; 19 g fat (7 sat., 9 monounsat., 2 polyunsat., 1 other); 75 mg chol.; 297 mg sod.; 1 g fiber; 2 g sugar; 43 percent calories from fat.

The resulting plunge into the world of butchers, bacon and chicken stock brought Weaver, a San Francisco food writer back to balance and health. Or it did, when she accompanied the flank steak with a fresh kale salad, washed down with a glass of pureed green stuff.

By turns hilarious, poignant and politically aware, Weaver's new memoir, "The Butcher and the Vegetarian" (Rodale, 228 pp., $23.99), shares the realizations and revelations of that journey. Among the insights: that barbecued bacon is amazing, that "meat hangovers" exist - but green juice and raw foods cure all - and that we are all much too quick to slap disparaging labels on fellow diners.

Last week, Weaver took a break to answer questions between book signing gigs in San Francisco and Seattle, her second home.

Q: Omnivores, fruitarians and vegetarians-who-make-an-exception-for-bacon - why are we so quick to categorize?

A: When you label something, it's easier to dismiss. Spending time now in the meat world, I've heard some pretty brutal dismissals of vegetarians and vegans. These are people making a personal choice based on their values. What is to be gained by making fun of them? Then again, there are a lot of vegans and vegetarians going off on meat-eaters and saying they're bloody murderers. I'm all about getting everyone to the table and making sure everyone is happy and satisfied.

Q: What about you, personally? Have you gone back to the veggie side?

A: I try to be a conscientious eater.

Q: Not going to tell, huh?

A: (Laughs) It's in the book.

Q: How did your vegetarian family take the news that you'd visited a, you know, butcher?

A: I think it was a little hard for my mother. I'd kept it to myself - I'd eat in restaurants and at other people's houses. When I started cooking (meat) at home, she referred to my freezer as a graveyard, because it had animals in it.

Q: You've spent time on both halves of the battlefield - I'm thinking, of course, about the Oakland barbecue fest you describe as Meat Henge.

A: Not having grown up in that culture, I didn't realize how passionate meat eaters are. There's an almost primal relationship to it. It sticks to your ribs in a way that a lot of other things don't. It's a security thing: I'm full now, so I don't have to worry about gathering my food or going to the store. It speaks to our Neanderthal nature.

Q: Me Tarzan, you vegetarian? But there's a cultural component too.

A: With any sort of food, there is tradition, culture, comfort. Your mother's meat loaf tastes like no one else's.

Q: Do you see a geographic difference?

A: Seattle and NorCal are very different when it comes to meat. (In Seattle, ) I feel like I've gone back in time in terms of sensitivity issues, to the Bay Area in the '80s, where maybe there was one vegetarian entree on the menu.

Q: What do you make of the resurgence of interest in carnivorous dining?

A: A lot of people became vegetarians because of the industrial meat system. They didn't want to support that. Now we're having a bit of a meat renaissance with ethical meat eating. There are people doing it better and doing it small-scale and doing it in a way that's humane - although there are vegetarians who say, killing is not humane. At the end of the day, the more people who know what goes into their food and how it comes to their plate, the better off we are.

FLANK STEAK WITH CHIMICHURRI SAUCE

Serves 4

1 1/2 pound trimmed flank steak

1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

Pinch cayenne pepper

1 large garlic clove

1 1/2 cups each fresh parsley and cilantro (or 3 cups parsley)

1/4 cup distilled white vinegar

1/3 cup olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes, optional

1. Preheat the broiler or ready the barbecue grill. Rinse and dry the steak. Combine salt, cumin, coriander and cayenne. Rub mixture over the meat on both sides.

2. Grill or broil the steak. Five minutes per side should yield medium-rare. Let rest a few minutes before slicing thinly, against the grain.

3. Finely chop the garlic in a food processor or on a large cutting board. Add the green herbs and continue chopping/pulsing until the mixture forms a loose paste. Add the oil, vinegar, salt and red pepper flakes. Serve the steak with the chimichurri sauce on top.

-Tara Austen Weaver, www.taraweaver.com

I learned to make a liaison some 30 years ago from a chef/professor in a Greek cooking class at the Culinary Institute of America.

Chef Dimitri, who was already 80 years old when I was a student, was a small gentleman with a huge moustache. He could whip up the perfect liaison every time and never ended up with scrambled eggs. He had us practice the technique making Greek Egg and Lemon Soup.

This creamy, tart, golden yellow soup is like slurping a bowl of warm sunshine. It is traditionally made from chicken stock, however it is equally delicious made with vegetable stock. It is also typically made with white rice but you can substitute orzo if you prefer.

GREEK EGG AND LEMON SOUP

8 cups vegetable broth or low-sodium vegetable broth

1 cup white basmati rice or orzo

2 whole garlic cloves, peeled

5 egg yolks

Zest of 1 lemon

Juice of 3 lemons

Fresh-ground black pepper, to taste

Combine the vegetable broth with rice or orzo and whole garlic cloves. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes or until tender. Discard garlic cloves.

In a mixing bowl, combine yolks, lemon zest, lemon juice and ground pepper. Whisk until well combined.

When the orzo or rice is tender, dip out about 2 cups hot broth into a glass measuring cup. While you whisk the egg mixture, very slowly drizzle the 2 cups hot broth into the egg yolk mixture; if you add it too quickly you will scramble the egg yolks. This is what you want to avoid. Continue whisking and adding liquid to the egg yolks until the measuring cup is empty.

Remove the saucepan with the orzo or rice from the burner and, once again, very slowly whisk the yolk mixture back into the saucepan combining well until thickened. Serve immediately. Makes 8 servings.

Per serving made with regular vegetable broth: 142 calories, 19 percent calories from fat, 3 grams total fat, 1 gram saturated fat, 131 milligrams cholesterol, 25 grams carbohydrates, .4 gram total fiber, 2 grams total sugars, 24 grams net carbs, 4 grams protein, 946 milligrams sodium.

Per serving made with low-sodium vegetable broth: 142 calories, 19 percent calories from fat, 3 grams total fat, 1 gram saturated fat, 131 milligrams cholesterol, 25 grams carbohydrates, .4 gram total fiber, 2 grams total sugars, 24 grams net carbs, 4 grams protein, 146 milligrams sodium.

---Kathy Kaiser, Orange, Calif.

Dear Kathy: Corn and shrimp are a great pairing and make for a great harmony in this simple but richly flavored Cajun spiced soup.

CAJUN SHRIMP AND CORN CHOWDER

Total time: 50 minutes

Servings: 4 to 6

Note: Adapted from Humphrey's Restaurant in San Diego. Cajun and Creole spice blends can be found in the prepackaged spice sections of most supermarkets.

3 tablespoons butter, divided

1 large onion, diced

1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon Cajun or Creole spice or seasoning, divided, more to taste

2 (12-ounce) boxes frozen corn

2 cups chicken stock, more as needed

1 cup bay shrimp

1 cup heavy cream, more to taste

Chopped parsley, garnish

1. In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt 21/2 tablespoons butter. Add the onions and cook until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. Stir in 1 tablespoon Cajun spice, corn and chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Cook until the corn is cooked through, about 20 minutes.

3. While the soup is cooking, saute the shrimp. Season the shrimp with the remaining Cajun spice. Heat a large saute pan over high heat, melt the remaining butter and quickly saute the shrimp until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and move the shrimp to a bowl. Set aside in a warm place.

4. Stir the heavy cream into the soup and heat to a gentle simmer. Cook an additional 10 to 15 minutes to thicken the soup slightly.

5. Remove from heat and puree the soup until smooth. Adjust the seasoning as needed and stir in additional cream if desired. Stir in the cooked shrimp.

6. Serve the soup garnished with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.

Each of 6 servings: 323 calories; 10 grams protein; 33 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 19 grams fat; 11 grams saturated fat; 87 mg. cholesterol; 7 grams sugar; 476 mg. sodium.

---Kathy Kaiser, Orange, Calif.

Dear Kathy: Corn and shrimp are a great pairing and make for a great harmony in this simple but richly flavored Cajun spiced soup.

CAJUN SHRIMP AND CORN CHOWDER

Total time: 50 minutes

Servings: 4 to 6

Note: Adapted from Humphrey's Restaurant in San Diego. Cajun and Creole spice blends can be found in the prepackaged spice sections of most supermarkets.

3 tablespoons butter, divided

1 large onion, diced

1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon Cajun or Creole spice or seasoning, divided, more to taste

2 (12-ounce) boxes frozen corn

2 cups chicken stock, more as needed

1 cup bay shrimp

1 cup heavy cream, more to taste

Chopped parsley, garnish

1. In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt 21/2 tablespoons butter. Add the onions and cook until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. Stir in 1 tablespoon Cajun spice, corn and chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Cook until the corn is cooked through, about 20 minutes.

3. While the soup is cooking, saute the shrimp. Season the shrimp with the remaining Cajun spice. Heat a large saute pan over high heat, melt the remaining butter and quickly saute the shrimp until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and move the shrimp to a bowl. Set aside in a warm place.

4. Stir the heavy cream into the soup and heat to a gentle simmer. Cook an additional 10 to 15 minutes to thicken the soup slightly.

5. Remove from heat and puree the soup until smooth. Adjust the seasoning as needed and stir in additional cream if desired. Stir in the cooked shrimp.

6. Serve the soup garnished with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.

Each of 6 servings: 323 calories; 10 grams protein; 33 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 19 grams fat; 11 grams saturated fat; 87 mg. cholesterol; 7 grams sugar; 476 mg. sodium.

"We are originally from Michigan and Polish and have found a recipe for this soup in all five of our Polish cookbooks," wrote J. Dombrowski of Huntsville, Ala. He included with the recipes a note by Robert Strybel, author of "Polish Heritage Cookery," who wrote that to "do the soup up right, you will need some genuine Polish-style brine cured dill pickles. The vinegar-cured variety you get at the supermarket will not do."

Louise Halbert, also of Huntsville, sent a recipe a friend translated from her mother's Polish cookbook.

POLISH DILL PICKLE SOUP

4 dill pickles (brine-cured if possible)

2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons butter

4 cups beef or chicken stock

2 cups peeled and cubed potatoes

1 cup thinly sliced celery

2 carrots, coarsely grated

Salt and pepper to taste

1 cup sour cream, divided

1 teaspoon fresh snipped dill, or to taste

Dice the pickles fine and dust with flour. Saute briefly in the butter. Add the stock, potatoes, celery and carrots and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a bare simmer, cover and cook 30 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Whisk a little of the hot soup into 3/4 cup of the sour cream, then whisk mixture into the pot. Taste and add some of the dill pickle juice if more tartness is desired. Serve immediately (if you let the soup get too hot, it may curdle) with sour cream dolloped on top, sprinkled with the dill. Makes 8 servings.

Per serving: 176 calories (54 percent from fat), 10.8 g fat (5.9 g saturated, 2.9 g monounsaturated), 26.2 mg cholesterol, 3.8 g protein, 17.1 g carbohydrates, 2.6 g fiber, 1,141 mg sodium.

Marion Schneider of Elyria, Ohio, got her recipe from a Michigan cookbook friends gave her "as a reminder of my roots," while Nancy Gawlick got hers from the 1948 "Treasured Polish Recipes for Americans," "a gift from my husband's mother when we married in 1964."

Q: "I love the flavor of the classic Bacardi Rum Cake recipe and I thought it would make a yummy layer cake. I am assuming I need to modify the temperature and length of time in the oven but am not sure how. Can you help?"

Jackie Fernandez, Miami

A: I experimented with making it as a traditional layer cake and found that you can indeed divide the batter into two greased and floured 9-inch deep dish cake pans and bake at 350 degrees (instead of 325) for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the cake springs back when lightly pressed. Do not under bake.

This is a perfect opportunity to pass along a recipe for a chocolate version of the classic, which I finagled from a friend who served it over the holidays. It would make a great Valentine's Day treat.

CHOCOLATE BACARDI RUM CAKE

1 box chocolate cake mix without pudding

2 (4-serving size) boxes instant chocolate pudding mix (divided)

4 eggs

1/2 plus 1/4 cup dark rum

1/4 cup plus 1 cup milk

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1 cup chopped toasted hazelnuts or pecans (optional)

2 cups whipped cream or whipped topping

1/2 cup Nutella

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour two 9-inch layer cake pans. Combine cake mix, 1 box pudding mix, eggs, 1/2 cup rum, 1/4 cup milk and the oil in a large bowl. Blend well, then beat at medium speed for 2 minutes. Stir in nuts.

Scrape batter into prepared pans and bake about 30 minutes, until cake tests done. Cool in pans for 10 minutes before turning out onto wire rack to cool completely.

Meanwhile, combine 1 cup milk, 1/4 cup rum and remaining pudding mix in bowl of electric mixer. Blend well, then increase speed to high and beat about 4 minutes, until light and fluffy. Fold in the whipped cream.

Split the cooled cakes horizontally. Stack the 4 layers on a serving platter one by one, spreading each with 2 tablespoons Nutella and 1/2 cup pudding mixture. Refrigerate at least 1 hour before serving. Makes 16 servings.

Per serving: 434 calories (51 percent from fat), 25.5 g fat (7.9 g saturated, 11.5 g monounsaturated), 71.4 mg cholesterol, 6.3 g protein, 42.4 g carbohydrates, 2.5 g fiber, 347.4 mg sodium.

Q:" In the late 1980s I subscribed to a set of recipe cards, which I believe were called Great American. You got a fresh set of cards every month. I got rid of them when I switched to recipes on the computer, but I'm kicking myself because I've never found a recipe quite as good as the one they had for Chicken Diane."

Renee Ellis

A: Happily, a Cook's Corner fan who was clearing her kitchen contributed a few dozen cards to my library, and while the set isn't complete, I did find the recipe you remember. It is dated 1988.

GREAT AMERICAN CHICKEN BREASTS DIANE

4 large boneless chicken breast halves

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

2 tablespoons butter, divided

3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or green onion

Juice of 1/2 lime or lemon

2 tablespoons brandy or cognac (optional)

3 tablespoons chopped parsley

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/4 cup chicken broth

Place chicken between sheets of wax paper or plastic wrap and pound with a mallet to flatten slightly. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Heat 1 tablespoon each oil and butter in large skillet. Cook chicken over medium-high heat for about 4 minutes per side, just until cooked through. Transfer to warm serving platter.

Add chives, lime juice, cognac, parsley and mustard to pan. Cook 15 seconds, whisking constantly. Whisk in broth, stirring until sauce is smooth. Whisk in remaining butter and oil. Pour sauce over chicken and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Per serving: 263 calories (50 percent from fat), 14.2 g fat (5 g saturated, 6.9 g monounsaturated), 83.7 mg cholesterol, 27.9 g protein, 0.5 g carbohydrates, 0.2 g fiber, 489.9 mg sodium.

SLEUTH'S CORNER

Q: Many years ago there was a restaurant on the beach called Mitch's Steak House. They served an oyster-stuffed steak with an anchovy sauce. It may sound disgusting, but it was the best we have ever had.

Marsha Dickman

Q: The Rock Beach Grill of Pembroke Pines, Fla., had the best clam chowder that I have ever tasted. Unfortunately, they have closed. Any chance of getting their recipe?

Kathleen W.

Cook time: 6¼ hours

Serves 8 to 10

This recipe, courtesy of Joseph Bonaparte of the Art Institute of Charlotte, N.C., first appeared in the Charlotte Observer in 2008.

Note: The prep time does not include the 1- to 3-day chill time for the uncooked pork belly or the overnight chill time for the cooked pork belly.

INGREDIENTS

4 tablespoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon freshly cracked black pepper

1 tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot

1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon fresh sage leaves

2 to 3 pounds fresh pork belly

1 onion, peeled and sliced

1 carrot, peeled and sliced

1 stalk celery, sliced

About 3 to 4 cups apple juice or fresh apple cider

1 to 2 cups chicken stock or water

Cheddar-mustard crackers (see recipe)

Strawberry jam

INSTRUCTIONS

Mix the salt, sugar, pepper, ginger, garlic, rosemary, thyme and sage. Rub all over the pork belly, coating it well. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 to 3 days.

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Unwrap the pork and rinse off the seasoning mix, then dry with paper towels.

Place the sliced onions, carrots and celery in a roasting pan large enough to hold the pork. Place pork in roasting pan. Add enough apple juice or cider to come halfway up the pork. Add enough stock or water to come 3/4 of the way up the meat. Cover the meat with parchment paper, then cover the pan tightly with heavy duty foil and a lid.

Place in the oven and cook about 6 hours, or until very tender. Line a jellyroll pan or cookie sheet with parchment paper. Carefully remove the pork belly from the cooking liquid, lifting from the bottom with a couple of spatulas so it doesn't fall apart. Place it on the paper-lined pan, and place another sheet of parchment on top. Place another pan on top, then weigh it down with several pounds (such as heavy cans).

Refrigerate overnight. (The cooking liquid can be strained and used for another recipe, such as soup.) Remove from refrigerator, remove weights and peel off the paper. (Can be made to this point up to 4 days ahead. Refrigerate until ready to serve.)

Slice the firm pork belly into 1-by-2-inch cubes. Place in a skillet over medium-high heat and sear, turning carefully with tongs, until browned and crisped on all sides. Serve on a cheddar cracker with a dab of jam.

Per serving based on 2½ pounds of pork belly, 10 servings, without crackers or jam: 647 cal.; 12 g pro.; 14 g carb.; 60 g fat (22 sat., 28 monounsat., 7 polyunsat., 3 other); 82 mg chol.; 1,192 mg sod.; 1 g fiber; 12 g sugar; 84 percent calories from fat.

Cheddar-mustard crackers

Prep time: 40 minutes

Cook time: 15 minutes

Makes about 4 dozen

This recipe, adapted from Gourmet magazine, first appeared in the Charlotte Observer in 2008.

Note: The prep time does not include the 15-minute chill time for the dough or the 4-hour chill time for the dough logs.

INGREDIENTS

2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, softened

1 pound sharp cheddar, coarsely grated (preferably in a food processor; 5 cups)

1 large egg yolk

1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons dry mustard

1/4 cup brown or yellow mustard seeds (we reduced to 2 tablespoons, which worked fine)

2 teaspoons salt

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for surface

Instructions

Blend butter, cheese and egg yolk in a food processor until smooth. Add mustards, salt and flour, and pulse just until combined. Transfer the soft dough to a bowl. Cover and chill 15 minutes.

Halve the dough and shape each half into a 12-inch log on a lightly floured surface. Wrap in wax paper and foil, chill until firm, at least 4 hours. (Dough can be frozen for several months. Defrost in the refrigerator before slicing.)

Place oven racks in upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper (or nonstick baking mat, such as Silpat). Unwrap logs and cut into 1/8-inch-thick slices with a sharp knife. Place slices on baking sheet about 1 inch apart.

Bake until lightly brown around edges, switching position of pans halfway through baking, 12 to 15 minutes. Cool on a rack. After crackers are cool, store in an airtight container.

Per cracker: 99 cal.; 3 g pro.; 5 g carb.; 7 g fat (5 sat., 2 monounsat., 0 polyunsat.); 25 mg chol.; 157 mg sod.; 0 g fiber; 0 g sugar; 68 percent calories from fat.

Cook time: 3 1/2 hours

Serves: 20 to 25 as an appetizer ( 1/2 cup serving) or 6 to 8 as a main course

This recipe is courtesy of Mary Ellen Shay.

Note: The prep time does not include the soak time for the peas.

INGREDIENTS

1 pound package of black-eyed peas

2 to 3 pounds of ham hocks, cut in 2-inch pieces

Chicken stock, as needed

3 celery stalks, chopped

3 carrots, chopped

1 large onion, chopped

2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced

1 green pepper, chopped

1/2 teaspoon each of oregano, thyme and basil

2 bay leaves

Cayenne pepper, to taste

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 cup rice

INSTRUCTIONS

Soak peas per package instructions. Drain and reserve.

Place ham hocks in a large pot. Add enough water to cover. Simmer for 2 hours or until tender. Remove meat from bones. Reserve meat, discard bones. Pour liquid (ham stock) from the pot into a large measuring container. Add enough chicken stock to make at least 6 to 8 cups of liquid. Return liquid to pot and add peas.

Add vegetables and spices to pot (do not add rice yet) and bring to a boil. Simmer for about an hour. Add rice and cook for another 20 minutes. Peas should be tender but not mushy. Add reserved meat and cook until peas are done. Remove bay leaves and serve.

This dish can be reheated for later serving, but don't cook too long, or the peas will break up.

Per serving based on 8 main course servings: 530 cal.; 36 g pro.; 46 g carb.; 21 g fat (8 sat., 10 monounsat., 3 polyunsat.); 98 mg chol.; 469 mg sod.; 9 g fiber; 7 g sugar; 37 percent calories from fat.

Q: You write that the way we eat is different now. How are the supermarket aisles different?

A: We have a house in upper New York. And the supermarket there ... there is an aisle (called) 'Rices of the World': Jasmine, basmati, Arborio, sushi. It goes on and on. They have about 30 kinds of rice. They have an entire section of Latino ingredients and all kind of Asian ingredients ... You have five different kinds of chicken - organic, free-range, hormone-free, et cetera. And you have grass-fed beef and Berkshire pork that has been humanely raised.

Q: What food trends do you see in restaurants?

A: The biggest is recession-driven. People do not want to spend the money that they used to spend. And chefs (are) looking at less-expensive cuts of meat ... It's no accident that the chic menu item is pork belly. That started out because it's cheap. All of a sudden, people realize how delicious it is.

Q: What's your favorite recipe in the cookbook?

A: It's like asking which is your favorite child.

Q: What's in your fridge?

A: I always have butter, bacon, Parmesan cheese, lemons, good soy sauce, oyster sauce. Two or three different salsas and hot sauces. I make chicken stock almost every weekend. Chicken stock is like gold in your freezer. If you got that, dinner is ready. You can make risotto. You can make great soups. You reduce it down, and you can make great sauces. It's free. It's just bones.

Q: So every foodie is going to want to know: Where will the Gourmet editor eat when she's in town (Seattle)?

A: It's hard for me to eat on book tours. So I end up ordering room service. In (public television's upcoming) "Gourmet's Adventures with Ruth," shot last May, I had some really wonderful meals there (in Seattle). Tilth. Canlis. And I love Café Juanita. I really like Lark.

Q: What's the Seattle episode about?

A: It's about seafood in Seattle and foraging at Totten Inlet. We got oysters and clams and mussels.