Tasty Recipes from Recipe Wizards

From the Aztecs comes a chicken vegetable soup with poblano chiles and chayote squash; from Paraguay there’s bori-bori, a beef broth and dumpling soup; from the Caribbean there’s callaloo, in which the greens of taro root are cooked with okra and bacon.

The book cover says soup, but inside, the “Culinary Institute of America’s The New Book of Soups” (Lebhar-Friedman Books, New York) says so much more.

It says that many Americans in this land of immigrants have a taste for foods of cultures beyond their own – and that most of these stews and chowders are well within our reach as home cooks.

The collection of recipes is presented as American, not international: ethnic soups from immigrants old and new, meant to warm body and soul. At a time when every other cookbook seems to rely on one gimmick or another, this subtle message of inclusion is especially enticing.

What we think of as traditional American favorites are still included in this revised edition: minestrone, mushroom barley, chili, cream of tomato, and classic lentil soup.

But instead of putting all the international soups in a separate chapter, the book is divided into sections on broths, hearty soups, stews, cream soups, pureed soups, bisques and chowders, cold soups, and accompaniments, with world flavors included in each.

There’s a recipe for mulligatawny, which reflects the British colonization of India; a Tunisian chickpea soup called leblebi; and a Moroccan vegetable stew that is a meal in itself.

Jambalaya, etouffee, lamb korma – you can spend the rest of winter roaming the culinary globe.

You’ll find avgolemono, the traditional Greek egg and lemon soup that is so surprisingly simple and appealing it has become my new go-to soup. And at the other end of the convenience-and-capability spectrum is feijoada, a stew rich in ham hocks, pig’s foot, and chorizo that takes three days to prepare.

Since I favor vegetarian bisques, I decided to step outside my comfort zone with the Catalan Beef Stew. Beef cut from the shoulder is at the heart of the Spanish dish made all the more aromatic with julienne orange peels.

As a soup maker, have you ever wondered how many scallions to buy in order to get one cup chopped? The answer to that and other shopping dilemmas is in a helpful chapter.

Alongside directions for making pistou and popovers are recipes for accompaniments like harissa, a spicy-hot Tunisian condiment, and fried shallots, a quick, crispy garnish for hearty soups. Fried shallots are, essentially, a more elegant, homemade version of those fried onion rings in a can.

They taste great on soto ayam, an Indonesian chicken noodle soup with cellophane noodles and lemongrass.

Don’t let the lemongrass scare you, it’s quickly becoming an all-American ingredient. Stalks of fresh lemongrass are available in ethnic supermarkets such as the H-Mart chain, as well as at Reading Terminal Market. To clean them, work from the base of the stalk, removing the tough outer peel, and wash away underlying grit. Then chop and use the bottom 4 to 5 tender inches.

The finished soto ayam is a delicately scented chicken soup with a rich flavor that is distinctly different from what we think of as Jewish chicken soup.

Soto ayam is not a quick recipe, but it is easy and stores well. When you serve this soup on a cold winter’s night, you’ll think the time well spent.

And what would a book from the CIA be if not instructive? So, for example, a recipe for Belgian cream of chicken soup called waterzooi instructs in the use of a thickening “liaison,” a mixture of egg yolks and cream added to hot liquid using a process called “tempering.” It’s not a complicated step, but one that makes the difference between a good home cook and a great one.

And once you master it, you can also use it to make billi bi, a French cream of mussel soup.

Julia Child would be proud.

CATALAN BEEF STEW

Makes 4 servings

1 tablespoon olive oil

5 slices bacon, thick-cut, diced

2 pounds boneless beef chuck or bottom round, cut into 2-inch pieces

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, as needed

2 cups chopped yellow onion

2 cups red wine

2 tablespoons orange peel julienne

2 bay leaves

2 teaspoons minced garlic

2 parsley sprigs, minced

1 cup Spanish black olives, pitted

1. Heat the oil in a casserole or Dutch oven over medium high heat until it shimmers. Add the bacon, and saute until crisped and browned, 5 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a bowl with a slotted spoon, letting the oil drain back into the casserole.

2. Return the casserole to the heat and heat the oil until it shimmers. Season the beef generously with salt and pepper. Add the beef (working in batches to avoid crowding the pan) and sear on all sides until brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer the beef to the bowl with the bacon using a slotted spoon and letting the oil drain back into the casserole. Add the onion and saute, stirring occasionally, until deeply caramelized, 25 to 30 minutes

3. Return the beef and bacon to the casserole, add the red wine, orange peel, bay leaves, garlic, and parsley; bring the liquid to a boil. Immediately adjust the heat for a gentle simmer. Season the stew to taste with salt and pepper throughout cooking time. Simmer the stew, covered, until the beef is nearly tender, about 2 hours. Add the olives and continue to simmer until the beef is fork-tender, 1 to 11/2 hours. Serve in heated bowls.

Per serving: 914 calories, 52 grams protein, 14 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams sugar, 62 grams fat, 177 milligrams cholesterol, 728 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.

AVGOLEMONO (GREEK EGG AND LEMON SOUP)

Makes 6 to 8 servings

6 cups chicken broth

1/3 cup long-grain white rice

4 eggs, separated

Salt and freshly ground white pepper, as needed

Freshly squeezed lemon juice, as needed

1. Bring the broth to a simmer in a soup pot. Add the rice and cook until tender, about 15 minutes.

2. Whip the egg yolks in a large bowl until thickened. Whip the egg whites in another bowl to soft peaks. Fold the whites into the yolks. Add the egg mixture to the simmering broth, whipping constantly. The soup will become frothy and thick.

3. Season the soup to taste with the salt, white pepper, and lemon juice. Serve in heated bowls.

Per serving (based on 8): 80 calories, 4 grams protein, 7 grams carbohydrates, trace sugar, 4 grams fat, 106 milligrams cholesterol, 725 milligrams sodium, trace dietary fiber.

SOTO AYAM (INDONESIAN CHICKEN, NOODLE, AND POTATO SOUP)

Makes 8 servings

1 3-pound chicken

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil

4 shallots, chopped

2 stalks fresh lemongrass, bottom 4 or 5 inches only, crushed

1 garlic clove, crushed

One 1-inch slice fresh ginger, crushed

1/2 teaspoon crushed black peppercorns

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

6 cups chicken broth

1 1/4 cups diced yellow or white potatoes

1 ounce dried mung bean threads (cellophane noodles)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1/2 tablespoon red chili or hot bean paste

1/2 teaspoon sugar

4 scallions, thinly sliced

2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped

1 1/2 celery stalks, diced

For garnish:

Fried Shallots (see recipe)

1 lemon, cut into wedges

1. Remove the giblets from the chicken; discard or save the liver for another use. Wash the chicken and rub it with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Set aside.

2. Heat the oil in a skillet over high heat. Add the chopped shallots, lemongrass, garlic, ginger, black pepper, and turmeric. Cook, stirring constantly, until the aroma is apparent, about 30 seconds. Remove from the heat.

3. Combine the broth and remaining 11/2 teaspoons salt with the chicken, giblets, and shallot mixture in a soup pot. Bring to a simmer and cook until the chicken is cooked through and tender, about 45 minutes. Skim often to remove the foam that rises to the surface during simmering.

4. Remove the chicken from the broth and, when cool enough to handle, remove the bones from the chicken. Return the bones to the broth and continue to simmer for another hour, skimming as needed. Meanwhile, dice the chicken meat and set aside.

5. Place the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring to a simmer. Cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and spread the potatoes in a single layer to cool.

6. Soak the bean threads in hot water to cover until tender, about 5 minutes. Rinse and separate the strands under cool running water. Chop into 2-inch pieces and set aside.

7. When the broth has simmered for an hour, strain it through a fine sieve. Mix the soy sauce, chili paste, and sugar together; stir into the strained broth.

8. Add the diced chicken meat, cooked potatoes, soaked bean threads, scallions, chopped eggs, and celery to the broth. Bring to a simmer and add a squeeze of lemon to taste.

9. Serve the soup in heated bowls, garnished with the fried shallots. Pass the lemon wedges on the side.

Per serving: 364 calories, 45 grams protein, 15 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams sugar, 13 grams fat, 202 milligrams cholesterol, 1,644 milligrams sodium, 1 grams dietary fiber.

FRIED SHALLOTS

Makes 8 garnish servings

2 shallots

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

Salt to taste

Cayenne pepper to taste (optional)

1/2 cup milk

2 cups vegetable oil or as needed for frying

1. Peel and slice the shallots into 1/8-inch-thick rings. Separate the rings.

2. Season the flour with salt and cayenne (if using).

3. Dip the shallots in the milk. Strain or use a slotted spoon to remove. Dredge the shallots in the flour.

4. Fry in 325-degree oil until golden, about 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Season to taste with salt.

Per serving: 10 calories, trace protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, trace sugar, 1 grams fat, trace cholesterol, 1 milligram sodium, trace dietary fiber.

Tortilla soup with chunks of chicken, tomato, flavored with chili, and topped with avocado and cheese. Cioppino stew with tomato broth, squid, muscles and fennel. Cream of asparagus with onions, garlic, shallots, butter and cream. Sound fancy?

Soup isn’t just a starter. Elegant, comforting and exotic soups are taking over as the main course at many dinner parties. “Soups are a very trendy type of entertainment right now because of the economy and people being more reserved to dine out,” said Doug Alley, an adjunct culinary instructor at Johnson & Wales in Providence, R.I.

Soup dinner parties require some cooking skills as well as appropriate pairing abilities. For hosts considering a soup-centered meal, here is a menu with helpful basics, recipe ideas, side dish suggestions and beverage pairings.

STARTERS

Many soups can be made in advance and reheated the day of the party. “Soups really taste better if you let them cool down and reheat them the next day. Exceptions are cheese soups,” said chef Katherine Polenz, an associate professor at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.

Cold soups should be served at 45 to 50 degrees. Hot soups can be served around 180 degrees unless the soup contains egg yolks or cheese, then 175 degrees or less is more appropriate. “These soups can curdle or break if it’s too hot,” Polenz said.

MAIN COURSE

Hosts should first consider their guests’ palates before selecting a soup. Gourmand guests may enjoy ethnic soups, seafood stews, or exotic vegetable creams. Less adventurous guests will prefer more simple, familiar recipes such as chicken and dumplings or chili, Alley said.

Next, hosts should consider the type of gathering. A simple, comforting soup such as cheddar potato or bean soup will satisfy a family dinner. A more formal affair should lean towards a soup which uses special occasion ingredients such as squid, muscles or clams, Polenz said.

Hosts on a budget can avoid meat- or seafood-based soups and opt for an inexpensive bean, creamy broccoli or split-pea. However, it’s important to pick a hearty soup that will satisfy guests. “If it’s the center of attention, I wouldn’t serve a light, brothy, soup,” Polenz said.

Finally, hosts must consider their skill level before selecting a recipe. Beginners are advised to pick a comforting, hearty broth based soup such as chicken noodle with dumplings or beef stew.

“Have good quality products and let it cook slow,” Alley said.

Beginners are advised to avoid soups that require thickening agents. This is primarily because these soups require a sense of timing such as understanding when to add certain ingredients. Cream of asparagus, for example, is a soup that requires proper timing or the color will change from a light green to a deep, unappetizing army green, Alley said.

Advanced beginners can step up to a Tuscan bean soup with sausage. At this level, Alley said hosts should have an understanding of working with beans, including knowing the importance of starting with cold water so the beans don’t constrict and fail to soften.

Intermediate cooks with a comfortable understanding of timing can advance to cream based soups such as crab bisque, lobster bisque, clam chowder or classic potato and leek. Cooks will need to understand the process of working with these ingredients such as not adding the clams until the end so they don’t become rubbery. For intermediate cooks in a warm weather region, a vichyssoise is an option since it is traditionally served cold, Alley said.

Advanced cooks can choose from beginner or intermediate skill-level recipes or test their abilities with international recipes. “When you’re advanced, you’re getting into more ethnic soups,” Alley said. “Thai coconut soups, Vietnamese style noodle soups, getting adventurous and understanding the balance of seasoning.”

Many advanced soups also require the proper kitchen tools such as a mortar and pestle. Lemongrass, for example, needs to be smashed to release the perfumes and teas. “You need to break it up a little and bruise it,” Alley said.

ON THE SIDE

Side dishes for soup-centered meals should be simple and complimentary. Both Alley and Polenz recommend a warm, crusty bread served with olive oil or butter. “Pick breads that are crusty and chewy such as multi-grain, country white, foccacia,” Polenz said. “Always a baguette, can’t go wrong with a baguette.”

Small, simple sandwiches may also work well. For a creamy, tomato soup, Polenz recommends a grilled cheese or an open-face parmesan that is sliced open and toasted with parmesan cheese.

Salads can also be incorporated into the meal but hosts are encouraged to stay within the same flavor profile and avoid redundancy. “If I was making tortilla soup which is made with corn tortillas, chicken, tomatoes, garnished with avocado and jack cheese and has the flavors of dried chili, I would serve it with a salad with complementary flavors,” Polenz said.

An example of complimentary flavors is a bitter green salad with a sherry vinegarette, red onions, corn and a crumbly Mexican cheese such as anejo or cotija, Polenz said.

FROM THE BAR

Hosts can successfully tie the meal together with the appropriate beverage and it’s recommended to match the ethnicity of the soup and the spirit. For tortilla soup, Polenz recommends tequila or a cold Mexican beer.

Tuscan white bean soups with sausage can be served with a hearty red wine such as a Borolo which is considered a big, powerful wine. In contrast, spicy soups such as Thai curry work well with crisp whites, Polenz said. Sweet wines are another option, and Rieslings are commonly found on the wine list at upscale Asian restaurants.

A pinot noir works well with beef stew as does an American microbrew beer, Polenz said.

It’s hard to imagine soup other than in a steaming bowl.

But cold soup, once you get used to the idea, can be a refreshing change of pace for a sweltering summer day.

Carla Snyder, who co-wrote “300 Sensational Soups” with Meredith Deeds, said lots of people are familiar with gazpacho, or vichyssoise, which is associated with fancy French cuisine. Beyond that, cold soups are still a bit of a mystery to many, she said.

Cold soups typically showcase fresh vegetables or fruits and are easy to put together, often requiring no cooking. A cold soup is perfect for a light summer meal, but also works well as an appetizer or dessert.

Chef Rodney Hunt, of Robert J. Events & Catering in Akron, Ohio, said he often serves cold soup as an appetizer, presenting it in a shooter glass or cordial glass.

He said a small shot of soup is perfect for the food trend of small plates, and makes a surprising appetizer. “Chilled soup is a little more refreshing,” he said.

For parties at home, Snyder said, using shot glasses, perhaps ones that have been collected over the years from traveling, is a fun way to display a collection of vacation memorabilia.

When preparing cold soups, always begin with the freshest produce because it will provide the backbone for the soup. “With summer soups, the quality of the ingredients is really key,” Snyder said.

With melon soups, for example, a watery bland melon will produce a soup of the same quality.

Soups can be pureed in a blender or food processor, or with an immersion blender. Snyder said a traditional blender will inject more air into a puree and make for a smoother, more velvety soup.

Cold soups typically require more seasoning than hot soups, because they aren’t being heated, which helps to release the flavors of herbs and spices. Snyder said some cold soups are made hot and then chilled. When cooking, they may taste just right, but after chilling, their flavors may not be as intense, so it’s always a good idea to taste them cold and adjust salt, pepper and other spices.

Many cold soups call for the addition of heavy cream or sour cream, and Snyder said it’s OK to lighten them up with yogurt or a lighter cream. However, taking out fat is another reason to increase the spice and seasoning. “Bump up the flavors a little bit when you cut the fat because you cut back on the soup’s ability to carry flavor forward,” she said.

Hunt said he likes to add spice to fruit soups for an unexpected flavor twist. He pairs mango with jalapeno and cantaloupe with Tabasco sauce for combinations that are sweet and spicy.

MANGO JALAPENO HURRICANE

4 ripe mangoes, peeled and diced

2 jalapeno peppers, seeded and finely diced

1 tbsp. fresh lime juice

Pinch of salt

Cilantro, for garnish

Place mango, lime juice and salt into a food processor or blender and puree.

Stir in peppers. Don’t puree the peppers; it will make the soup too hot.

Chill for at least an hour.

Pour into cordial glasses and garnish with a sprig of cilantro.

Makes 20 appetizer-size servings.

- Chef Rodney Hunt, Robert J. Events & Catering

ZESTY CANTALOUPE SHOOTER

1 medium cantaloupe, peeled, seeds removed, diced

1 tbsp. Tabasco sauce

4-ounces sour cream, for garnish

Fresh mint sprigs, for garnish

Puree cantaloupe and Tabasco sauce in a blender or food processor. Chill for at least one hour before serving.

Serve in shot glasses topped with a dollop of sour cream and a mint sprig.

Makes 20 appetizer-size servings.

- Chef Rodney Hunt

GUACAMOLE SOUP

1 serrano chile pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 clove garlic

1/2 cup tightly packed fresh cilantro leaves

2 avocados, halved, seed removed and removed from their skin

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice

1/2 tsp. salt

1 cup, diced seeded tomatoes

Crispy tortilla strips (recipe follows)

In a food processor or blender, process chile pepper, garlic and cilantro until finely chopped, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice as necessary. Add avocados, stock, lime juice and salt. Process until smooth.

Transfer to a bowl, cover and refrigerate until cold, about 3 hours. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt, if necessary.

Ladle into chilled bowls and garnish with tomatoes and tortilla strips.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

CRISPY TORTILLA STRIPS

Vegetable oil 6 (6-inch) corn tortillas, halved, then cut crosswise into matchstick-size strips

Salt

In a saucepan, heat 3/4 inch oil over medium heat until it registers 350 degrees on a thermometer. Add tortilla strips in 4 batches and fry until crisp and light golden, 30 to 45 seconds.

Using tongs or a slotted spoon, remove tortilla strips to a plate lined with paper towels. Season to taste with salt. Let cool and use within 3 hours.

Makes about 3 cups, enough to garnish 6 to 8 servings of soup.

- “300 Sensational Soups,” Carla Snyder and Meredith Deeds

SHRIMP COCKTAIL SOUP WITH HORSERADISH CREAM

For the soup:

8 cups chilled vegetable cocktail, such as V8

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

2 tbsp. prepared horseradish

2 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tsp. celery salt

1 tsp. cracked black pepper

1 lb. medium shrimp, peeled and halved lengthwise

Juice of 1 lemon 2 tbsp. minced fresh chives

For the horseradish cream:

1/2 cup whipping cream 1 tbsp. prepared horseradish

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large pitcher, combine vegetable juice, Worcestershire sauce, horseradish, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, celery salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning with celery salt, pepper, lemon juice or horseradish, if necessary. Cover and refrigerate until cold, about 3 hours. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add shrimp and lemon juice. Cover, remove from heat and let stand for 3 minutes. Drain shrimp and plunge into an ice bath to cool quickly. Drain again and pat dry. The shrimp will have curled into attractive corkscrew shapes. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve, for up to 3 hours.

Prepare the horseradish cream: In a bowl, beat cream with a whisk or mixer until thick. Fold in horseradish and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve, for up to 24 hours.

Pour soup into chilled bowls and garnish with shrimp and horseradish cream. Sprinkle with chives.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

- “300 Sensational Soups”