Tasty Recipes from Recipe Wizards

Cathy Corison produces only up to 3,000 cases at her eponymous winery in California’s Napa Valley. She sells just two cabernet sauvignons nationally. There’s a staff of only three. Yet her influence on winemaking is being increasingly felt in the United States and around the world.

Eloquent of speech and a graceful writer (read her often poetical tweets on Twitter: (at)cathycorison), Corison has been a tireless champion of “terroir”-driven wines, wines ripe with the unique flavor of region and vine, but also what is in the heart and mind of the winemaker.

“After making wine for others for many years, I made my first Corison cabernet with a clear stylistic vision of what I was trying to do,” Corison wrote in an e-mail. “My goal is to make Napa Valley benchland cabernet with both power and elegance that graces the table and enjoys a long, distinguished life. Of course each vintage deals us a new hand, but the vision is still the same. I hope I’ve gotten better and better at realizing it.”

With her top-of-the-line cab from her cherished Kronos Vineyard selling for about $100, Corison realizes she has to deliver.

“At the high end, a wine must distinguish itself from others or perish eventually. It needs to have something to say,” she explained.

Corison, too, has plenty to say about why such wines, carefully, lovingly and traditionally made, are growing in relevance today.

Q: You say there’s a renewed interest in a “wine’s ability to express time and place.” What do you mean by time and place? Why is that important?

A: Where and how a grapevine grows has a direct impact on the way a wine tastes. Everything that touches a vineyard contributes to a sense of place, beginning with the soil and climate and including the people involved and everything they do.

Time comes into play in many ways. Every vintage is different because the weather varies, so we can’t make exactly the same wine twice, even from the same vineyard. As winemakers, we are always operating in several time frames at once, watching our library vintages evolve, working with two vintages in the cellar and growing the grapes this year for the upcoming harvest. Even if we live a very long life, our vintages are numbered. Age-worthy wines mark time as they age, unlike almost anything else. The aromas and flavors of wine have an uncanny ability to evoke memories and emotions.

Q: How is that interest in time and place manifested?

A: Renewed talk of terroir is in the air again with both winemakers and consumers. Perhaps it’s a reaction against sameness? A search for meaning? Wine is great for washing down your food, but it can be so much more. Wine with a soul can give you something to think about and feel. It is alive, and like an interesting person, fun to follow through the ups and downs of a long life.

Q: But aren’t we seeing worldwide a trend toward consolidation of ownership, industrialization of the winemaking process and a whole lot of anonymous plonk meant to be drunk right now? How does one fight that?

A: Stubbornness, I guess. In the end all anyone has to sell is their integrity, and for me, that is honoring the vineyard. I take it as a moral obligation to let these great vineyards speak and make wines with a chance at a long, interesting life. I believe that the Napa Valley can produce cabernet as well or better than anywhere else in the world. I am so lucky to have the chance to spend my life helping great vineyards express themselves.

THE WINES

Cathy Corison makes a number of wines, but only two are widely available outside the winery. Our tasting panel sampled both late in 2009, giving both a rating of “very good.”

2005 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon Kronos Vineyard

A super-smooth cab with raspberry and violets on the nose and a flavor that combines berry, wood, spice and mint into a seamless whole. Long, spicy finish ends with a dash of black pepper. Serve with rack of lamb, beef tenderloin. $98

2006 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon

So purple it almost looks like blueberry juice, this Napa cab is smooth and silky, with a nose of plum and incense and a slow-building berry flavor that fades into a long finish. Deceptively powerful. Serve with beef roulade, filet mignon, rack of lamb. $70

Since May, I’ve been conducting a tomato experiment in my back yard. I’ve been growing tomatoes in the ground, in a homemade upside-down planter and in a commercial upside-down planter called the Topsy Turvy.

The growing season has come to an end. The harvest is in. So, what’s the verdict? Are the TV ads promoting the upside-down planters true? Is it really a better way to grow tomatoes? Here’s what happened in my yard:

May and June: During a late frost, I brought the Topsy Turvy tomatoes inside, while the poor in-ground plants shivered under plastic covers. Our record-breaking cool weather wasn’t the best for tomato-growing, but the upside-down tomato plants grew steadily. The Early Girl sent out timid shoots, then yellow flowers followed quickly by a tiny green tomato. The in-ground Early Girl appeared to be in shock and didn’t grow for weeks.

July: The first tomato of the season came from the Topsy Turvy. The runner-up was a bite-sized fruit from my homemade upside-down planter. But the earthbound plants started catching up and were loaded with promising green fruit. I learned (the hard way) that the upside-down planters need lots of water – a gallon a day – and fertilizer at least once a week.

August: Tomatoes were coming fast and furious from all of the plants. It was easier to pick tomatoes from the plants in the air. However, the Early Girls grown upside-down were smaller than the fruit from the ground. With drought conditions, I watered the garden with a sprinkler every few days, but I had to pour a gallon of water into the upside-down planters every day. Squirrels snatched some of the in-ground fruit, but didn’t manage to get the hanging fruit.

Sept: Fusarium blight hit the in-ground tomato plants, causing the leaves and branches to turn brown, then eventually killing the plants. The upside-down plants were untouched by blight and still produced fruit, but I was tired of all the watering and fertilizing.

The verdict: There’s no clear winner. The upside-down plants bore fruit earlier, were easier to pick, seemed less likely to get diseased and were relatively squirrel-proof. (I should note that the Topsy Turvy outperformed my homemade version.) However, the fruit grown in the upside-down planters was slightly smaller and a little less tasty. And you really have to baby these plants, watering every day and fertilizing regularly. If you have little or no garden space, plenty of sun and time to nuture, the Topsy Turvy is a good option. But upside-down tomatoes aren’t the hands-down winners.

Summer’s picnic season simply glides into tailgating season with the first football games of the season.

Portable grills, propane-fueled stove tops, fancy coolers with wheels, pop-up tents emblazoned with your favorite team’s logo and sometimes an RV have become essential tailgating items.

“It’s not just hauling the grill and unloading it to throw a few burgers and hotdogs on the fire anymore. It really is about bringing people together and reuniting each year to reminisce, celebrate and enjoy great food and good conversations,” Jayna Oakley said.

Oakley and sister-in-law Kelli Oakley are tailgating experts and authors of “Kentucky TALEgating: Stories With Sauce” and “Kentucky Talegating II: More Stories With Sauce.” And with a five-page article in the current issue of Taste of the South, their fame is spreading.

Since the magazine hit newsstands a few weeks ago, the women have heard from tailgaters “from the West Coast to the East Coast,” Jayna Oakley said.

Creating the cookbooks was as easy as going “on a joyride through the university parking lots” on game day and talking to “perfect strangers,” they told Taste of the South writer Stacey Norwood.

“Finding tailgaters who were eager to share their stories and recipes came as no surprise to either one of us,” Oakley said. “I think it’s part of Southern hospitality. So many times when we have get-togethers, food is part of that occasion.

“Everyone is eager to share a new recipe, where they got it, and where else they’ve taken it. It’s just all part of the tailgating tradition.”

From their tailgating experiences, talking to tailgaters and writing about tailgating, the women know how to plan the perfect stadium party.

For Jayna Oakley, the most important element is “to be prepared for everything – have lots of food, and pack for all kinds of weather.”

Kelli Oakley said for her it’s always about “cooking for the masses.”

“I love cooking for lots of people, and what better place to do just that than in a parking lot with thousands of people?” she said. “As a cook, you always want to plan on fixing something that will feed lots of people, because that’s the best part about tailgating: all the people stopping by. And, of course, you plan according to the weather. If it’s hot, you throw some burgers on the grill. If it’s cooler weather, you bring out the chili.”

The Oakleys’ recipes are mostly from tailgating parties that they’ve “crashed” while pursuing stories for their books. They say the most requested recipe is for the chocolate chip cheese ball, which the magazine published with a photograph.

“I’ve prepared so many of these recipes, and you keep going back to the ones everyone likes,” Kelli Oakley said. “But, I tell you, Taste of the South’s story and photos sure did make the All-American burger very appealing, For Jayna, it’s always one of the sweet treats.”

“I guess I’ll always love the chocolate chip cheese ball,” Jayna Oakley said. “Kelli and I have taken the chocolate chip cheese ball everywhere we’ve been, and it’s such a hit. So, I guess it will always be my all-time favorite.”

Now it can be a favorite among even more tailgaters.

“We’ve had a lot of stories in a lot of magazines, and being asked to do a story in Taste of the South was such a compliment to our books,” Kelli Oakley said. “The story was fantastic, with great visuals of actual recipes in the books, and we got to talk about the people we met and how we actually put the books together.

“It’s just been a lot of fun, and people want to send us their favorite recipes and invite us to come and tailgate with them. So, it’s been a great experience, and we’ve sold a lot of books too.”

Books may be ordered through the Oakley Press Web site, www.oakleypress.net, or by calling (859) 494-1027.

PLAY IT SMART

Food is the focus of a tailgating party, so it’s important to think about food safety. Remember to pack clean, wet disposable cloths or wet wipes and paper towels for cleaning hands and surfaces.

Keep hot food hot

-To keep foods like chili and stew hot, use an insulated container. Fill the container with boiling water, let it stand for a few minutes, empty it, then put in the piping-hot food.

-Keep the insulated container closed to keep the food hot (140 degrees or higher).

-Quick-cooking meats such as rib-eye steaks and hamburgers are best for the grill.

Keep cold food cold

-Carry cold perishable foods such as raw beef patties, steaks and roasts in an insulated cooler packed with several inches of ice, frozen gel packs or containers of frozen water.

-Perishable side items such as potato salads or pasta salads must be kept cold. Pack them with several inches of ice.

-Wrap raw meat securely to prevent juices from cross-contaminating ready-to-eat food.

-Always make sure your seasoned and marinated items are in resealable plastic bags.

Source: Kentucky Beef Council

TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL PARTY IN THE PARKING LOT

-Plan your menu and do prep work a day or two before the game. Keep the menu simple, and pack prepared food in disposable containers.

-Make a list of the items you want to take along. Check off items as you pack. Pack paper products (plates, napkins, towels, forks, spoons) the night before. Remember a small first-aid kid, trash bags, water and extra ice.

-Plan to arrive 3 to 4 hours early and stay 1 to 2 hours after the game.

-Find a good spot to park. Not all parking spaces are created equal. Park next to a grassy area or at the end of the parking row; this gives you more room for serious tailgating.

-Food should be ready 1 1/2 hours before the game starts. This is plenty of time for those going to the game to eat, clean up and extinguish fires. Share food with neighbors. Swap recipes.

-Leave area clean. Take plenty of plastic trash bags for cleanup.

Source: Tailgating.com

This recipe is from Sandy Hillen of Lexington. It appears in both volumes of “Kentucky TALEgating: Stories with Sauce” (Oakley Press, $21.95).

CHOCOLATE CHIP CHEESE BALL

1 package (8 ounces) cream cheese, softened

3/4 cup confectioners’ sugar

1/2 cup butter, softened

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

3/4 cup miniature chocolate morsels

3/4 cup finely chopped pecans, divided

Graham crackers, butter cookies, or pretzels

In a bowl, combine cream cheese, confectioners’ sugar, butter, brown sugar and vanilla, beating with an electric mixer until smooth. Add chocolate morsels and 1/2 cup pecans. Refrigerate until firm, about 2 hours. Shape mixture into a ball and roll in remaining 1/4 cup pecans. Serve with graham crackers, butter cookies or pretzels. Makes 8 to 12 servings.

This dessert can go to the opening game in sweltering heat and a bowl game in chilling temperatures. Fresh berries or fall apples are perfect fillings for a rustic fruit tart.

RUSTIC BERRY TART

1 sheet refrigerated pie crust, softened as directed on box

4 cups fresh berries (raspberries, blueberries, blackberries or a mix), rinsed and picked over

1/4 cup granulated sugar; more to taste

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

Pinch of salt

1 whole large egg, beaten

Granulated sugar for sprinkling

Whipped cream for serving, optional

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Line large cookie sheet with cooking parchment paper. Unroll pie crust onto cookie sheet.

In small bowl, toss berries with sugar, flour, lemon zest and salt. If too tart, add as much as 2 more tablespoons sugar.

Spoon filling mixture onto center of crust within 2 inches of edge. Carefully fold 2-inch edge of crust over filling, pleating crust slightly as necessary.

In small bowl, beat egg and 1 tablespoon water; brush over edge of crust. Sprinkle sugar over crust edge. Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until crust is golden brown. Cool 15 minutes. Cut into wedges; serve warm. Cover and refrigerate remaining tart.

DORITOS SALAD

1 head iceberg lettuce, chopped

16-ounces can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed

1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese

1 bag of Doritos chips (squeeze bag to crush chips)

1 bottle French or Catalina salad dressing

In a large bowl, layer lettuce, beans and cheese. Toss with chips and salad dressing, and serve immediately.

Q. Can lime juice and lemon juice be used interchangeably in recipes?

A. The taste will be slightly different, of course, but beyond that, there shouldn’t be any reason why you can’t make the swap. Lime is a bit more floral, but if the lemon juice is acting as a thickener, such as in a lemon curd or lemon pie, the lime juice should still have enough acidity to do the job.

One time when you can’t swap is when you are canning tomatoes in a boiling-water canner. Recipes for canning tomatoes call for commercial, not fresh, lemon juice because the percentage of acidity in fresh fruit can vary widely, from 2.5 percent to 4.5 percent. It can depend on how old the fruit is, the season when it was picked and even how rainy the weather was. You need a dependable level of acidity to make tomatoes safe for canning, which is why you should always use bottled lemon juice if the recipe calls for it. And you certainly shouldn’t swap in lime juice.

One other tip I turned up, on www.baking911.com, is that you shouldn’t swap grapefruit juice for lemon juice in baking, because grapefruit juice is lower in acidity.

(Kathleen Purvis answers questions in her Ask a Cook Q&A at www.charlotteobserver.com/food. Or contact her: 704-358-5236; kpurvis@charlotteobserver.com)